Coming south

August 21

From Brigus, I rambled on down to Argentia. That's where the eastern ferry leaves Newfoundland for Nova Scotia. It's an overnight trip and, since I didn't get a cabin, I was pretty groggy upon landing. However, clarity was enough to remember that I wanted to see Cape Breton.

So, two days were spent driving around the Cabot Trail. The northern part is really geared for vacationers. I saw my final moose grazing just off the highway. A crowd of tourists had stopped to take pictures. In hopes of seeing a whale, I took a boat excursion. We saw seals and had porpoises swim right next to the boat. It was really, really cool. No whales spotted though. I had visions of going back to St. Anthony to see them (and the Peterman ice island/giant iceberg which had arrived). The Celtic Music Heritage Centre stop yielded short lessons in fiddlin' and step dancing...which is definitely for those lighter of mass than I. All in all, Cape Breton is lovely like NS and worth spending more time on.

But I wanted to see Prince Edward Island. Little did I realize how small it is! In one day, I took the ferry over from Cape Breton, visited the Roma historical site (a 1700s French settlement), the Orwell Agriculture Living History farm and had a tour of Charlottetown. That left a second day for visiting the Confederation Building, Founders Hall and Beacon House.

There are only about 100,00 people in the province, 50% of whom live in Charlottetown. The island is mostly farmland. Potatoes are the big crop--just like Ireland. But it seemed like most people were speaking French!

Turns out that Acadian life is robust on PEI. On my way out, I took in the Acadian Museum. They have had a long and difficult history as a people here and in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. When the British and the French warred over the Maritimes, the French settlers/Acadians had to move elsewhere when the British were in governance. Only in the past century have they been incorporated into provincial life. French remains a language spoken by their many descendents.

I took a day to go to the north shore of the island and visit Cavendish. From all I had read, I was expecting something like Orlando. Much to my surprize, tho, it was much less commercialized. The area has capitalized on Anne of Green Gables, but it's done...well...tastefully. Besides visiting the house, I spent time at an attraction called Avonlea. It's a collection of buildings with different exhibits and a barn for performers. There was a fun 3 man group playing old time music and working the crowd into gales of laughter. There were step dancers, story tellers and some minidramas taken from the Anne stories. It was a fun and educational experience for folks of all ages. The twins would have loved it.

After I drove over the Confederation Bridge, I travelled along the eastern shore of New Brunswick...again, a place geared to vacationers...especially French speaking souls. J' no parle Francais is my standard conversation.

What else? I've been spending lots of time on the computer finding lyrics to the songs I want to remember. I'm making my way through Leon Uris' The Hope...which reminds me that there is virtually no Jewish life in the Maritimes. I found a havura (group) in St. John's NL and a closed up synagogue in St. John NB, but nothing else. However, Cohen's is a large chain of furniture stores around Newfoundland. I think in gave me an edge a couple of times. LOL.

The rig needs some repair work that I hope to put off until I get back to the States. Found out that Eckerd College will be offering the Oxford certification course that I need to teach English abroad, so I may come back earlier than expected...if they still have space for me. Still practicing the autoharp when it doesn't disturb other campers. At the campground I'm in tonight, there's a band playing tunes from the 50s and 60s. The sky is finally clear enough to see stars...but not the Northern Lights. It's too far south.