What an experience! I am so fortunate to have been able to do this trip. There are memories that will last forever. But here, I want to share some final observations.
Being in Newfoundland, is being in a different culture. Although everyone speaks English (or a form thereof), the culture has some different values. They take the environment REALLY seriously. It is thought of as a treasure to be preserved and everyone does their part. There is not a speck of trash on the roads, recycling everything is the norm, and wind power is well developed (20% of all power). Because electricity is so expensive, lots of wooded area has been deforested for fuel, though. There is not a zoo in Newfoundland. Moose are accomodated in backyards and driveways.
Secondly, the value placed on young people is extraordinary. Many end up leaving the province due to lack of jobs. Those remaining are nurtured by entire communities. Music is one example. Whereever I went there were teens peforming...and adults trying to teach them the "old time music." The cuisine in Newfoundland is pretty bland. Fish and berries are the two sources of good nutrition. In places, vegetables cannot be grown due to bog iron.
Most everything is expensive. Think about it. There are only about 4 months of productive time each year. The rest is spent snowed in. Taxes for the province and local government alone total about 15%. Fishing and logging are almost dead and there is little mining. Tourism is the up and coming money maker.
I read an editorial in the St. John's paper during the almost-shutdown of the U.S. government. They pointed out that, in most countries, affluent people are expected to pay more taxes to help others. They published a chart of national income tax rates (Denmark the highest) that put the U.S. in the bottom quarter!
In Newfoundland, the gap between rich and poor is nothing like the U.S. Yes, there are fewer people. But there is no conspicuous consumption...no extravagant displays of wealth...and few housing projects...none like we see in U.S. metros. I didn't see any suits, even in St. John's, tho I am sure they are there. To the untrained eye, class divisions are pretty minimal. The family home of the Irvings (of Irving gas throughout Canada and Maine) looks like something you might find in South Tampa. It's in Charlottetown, PEI.
The concern for preserving history is everywhere. Most all little towns have some sort of "historical site." This may be an outgrowth of the emphasis on tourism, but may also reflect the provincialism in Newfoundland thought. When NL became a part of Canada in 1949, the federal government decided not to spend a lot of money providing services to small fishing villages. A program of resettlement encouraged folks to move to larger cities. People my age are the main residents left in those little towns. They will probably be the last generation living there.
Some efforts are being made to preserve small town life, but the economy cannot sustain them for long. Retirement homes and vacation cottages are even clustering together. Well-known tourist destinations (ex. Green Gables, seaside communities, etc.) are nothing like Orlando. They are quiet, clean and not particularly busy by comparison. Life is lived at a peaceful pace.
It's a dying way of life up there. Sad, but so. Newfoundland is probably one of the last places of its kind in the world. The huge panoramas, the endless miles of timber, the clean and clear lakes.... There is an innocence about it all. It's like the small town life of my childhood. If you want to experience it, best to go now.
Thursday, September 22, 2011
Friday, September 2, 2011
Southbound, with obstacles
Going west from Maine was not a good choice. I stopped in Vermont.
Though it only seemed like a bad storm from the motel, you probably heard how bad it got there. All along the highway, repair crews were working. In Brattleboro, downtown flooded, a building collapsed and two of the three entrances to the highway were flooded. Cousin Jay was meeting with his Board, so it wasn't a good time to visit. I wasn't able to reach Kate and Bonnie--I assume that the electricity and phone went out, so I'm on a beeline to Florida.
So far, I've gotten lost in Wilmington and caught in Labor Day traffic leaving D.C. It's gonna be a while.
I've been thinking about this trip in its totality and am trying to write about impressions, lessons and loves. So much about NL brought back fond memories from childhood.
Though it only seemed like a bad storm from the motel, you probably heard how bad it got there. All along the highway, repair crews were working. In Brattleboro, downtown flooded, a building collapsed and two of the three entrances to the highway were flooded. Cousin Jay was meeting with his Board, so it wasn't a good time to visit. I wasn't able to reach Kate and Bonnie--I assume that the electricity and phone went out, so I'm on a beeline to Florida.
So far, I've gotten lost in Wilmington and caught in Labor Day traffic leaving D.C. It's gonna be a while.
I've been thinking about this trip in its totality and am trying to write about impressions, lessons and loves. So much about NL brought back fond memories from childhood.
Friday, August 26, 2011
Does this beat all?
A woman from Florida being stuck in a hurricane path....in Maine! I'm headed west for safety. More talk when it clears up...
Sunday, August 21, 2011
Coming south
August 21
From Brigus, I rambled on down to Argentia. That's where the eastern ferry leaves Newfoundland for Nova Scotia. It's an overnight trip and, since I didn't get a cabin, I was pretty groggy upon landing. However, clarity was enough to remember that I wanted to see Cape Breton.
So, two days were spent driving around the Cabot Trail. The northern part is really geared for vacationers. I saw my final moose grazing just off the highway. A crowd of tourists had stopped to take pictures. In hopes of seeing a whale, I took a boat excursion. We saw seals and had porpoises swim right next to the boat. It was really, really cool. No whales spotted though. I had visions of going back to St. Anthony to see them (and the Peterman ice island/giant iceberg which had arrived). The Celtic Music Heritage Centre stop yielded short lessons in fiddlin' and step dancing...which is definitely for those lighter of mass than I. All in all, Cape Breton is lovely like NS and worth spending more time on.
But I wanted to see Prince Edward Island. Little did I realize how small it is! In one day, I took the ferry over from Cape Breton, visited the Roma historical site (a 1700s French settlement), the Orwell Agriculture Living History farm and had a tour of Charlottetown. That left a second day for visiting the Confederation Building, Founders Hall and Beacon House.
There are only about 100,00 people in the province, 50% of whom live in Charlottetown. The island is mostly farmland. Potatoes are the big crop--just like Ireland. But it seemed like most people were speaking French!
Turns out that Acadian life is robust on PEI. On my way out, I took in the Acadian Museum. They have had a long and difficult history as a people here and in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. When the British and the French warred over the Maritimes, the French settlers/Acadians had to move elsewhere when the British were in governance. Only in the past century have they been incorporated into provincial life. French remains a language spoken by their many descendents.
I took a day to go to the north shore of the island and visit Cavendish. From all I had read, I was expecting something like Orlando. Much to my surprize, tho, it was much less commercialized. The area has capitalized on Anne of Green Gables, but it's done...well...tastefully. Besides visiting the house, I spent time at an attraction called Avonlea. It's a collection of buildings with different exhibits and a barn for performers. There was a fun 3 man group playing old time music and working the crowd into gales of laughter. There were step dancers, story tellers and some minidramas taken from the Anne stories. It was a fun and educational experience for folks of all ages. The twins would have loved it.
After I drove over the Confederation Bridge, I travelled along the eastern shore of New Brunswick...again, a place geared to vacationers...especially French speaking souls. J' no parle Francais is my standard conversation.
What else? I've been spending lots of time on the computer finding lyrics to the songs I want to remember. I'm making my way through Leon Uris' The Hope...which reminds me that there is virtually no Jewish life in the Maritimes. I found a havura (group) in St. John's NL and a closed up synagogue in St. John NB, but nothing else. However, Cohen's is a large chain of furniture stores around Newfoundland. I think in gave me an edge a couple of times. LOL.
The rig needs some repair work that I hope to put off until I get back to the States. Found out that Eckerd College will be offering the Oxford certification course that I need to teach English abroad, so I may come back earlier than expected...if they still have space for me. Still practicing the autoharp when it doesn't disturb other campers. At the campground I'm in tonight, there's a band playing tunes from the 50s and 60s. The sky is finally clear enough to see stars...but not the Northern Lights. It's too far south.
From Brigus, I rambled on down to Argentia. That's where the eastern ferry leaves Newfoundland for Nova Scotia. It's an overnight trip and, since I didn't get a cabin, I was pretty groggy upon landing. However, clarity was enough to remember that I wanted to see Cape Breton.
So, two days were spent driving around the Cabot Trail. The northern part is really geared for vacationers. I saw my final moose grazing just off the highway. A crowd of tourists had stopped to take pictures. In hopes of seeing a whale, I took a boat excursion. We saw seals and had porpoises swim right next to the boat. It was really, really cool. No whales spotted though. I had visions of going back to St. Anthony to see them (and the Peterman ice island/giant iceberg which had arrived). The Celtic Music Heritage Centre stop yielded short lessons in fiddlin' and step dancing...which is definitely for those lighter of mass than I. All in all, Cape Breton is lovely like NS and worth spending more time on.
But I wanted to see Prince Edward Island. Little did I realize how small it is! In one day, I took the ferry over from Cape Breton, visited the Roma historical site (a 1700s French settlement), the Orwell Agriculture Living History farm and had a tour of Charlottetown. That left a second day for visiting the Confederation Building, Founders Hall and Beacon House.
There are only about 100,00 people in the province, 50% of whom live in Charlottetown. The island is mostly farmland. Potatoes are the big crop--just like Ireland. But it seemed like most people were speaking French!
Turns out that Acadian life is robust on PEI. On my way out, I took in the Acadian Museum. They have had a long and difficult history as a people here and in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. When the British and the French warred over the Maritimes, the French settlers/Acadians had to move elsewhere when the British were in governance. Only in the past century have they been incorporated into provincial life. French remains a language spoken by their many descendents.
I took a day to go to the north shore of the island and visit Cavendish. From all I had read, I was expecting something like Orlando. Much to my surprize, tho, it was much less commercialized. The area has capitalized on Anne of Green Gables, but it's done...well...tastefully. Besides visiting the house, I spent time at an attraction called Avonlea. It's a collection of buildings with different exhibits and a barn for performers. There was a fun 3 man group playing old time music and working the crowd into gales of laughter. There were step dancers, story tellers and some minidramas taken from the Anne stories. It was a fun and educational experience for folks of all ages. The twins would have loved it.
After I drove over the Confederation Bridge, I travelled along the eastern shore of New Brunswick...again, a place geared to vacationers...especially French speaking souls. J' no parle Francais is my standard conversation.
What else? I've been spending lots of time on the computer finding lyrics to the songs I want to remember. I'm making my way through Leon Uris' The Hope...which reminds me that there is virtually no Jewish life in the Maritimes. I found a havura (group) in St. John's NL and a closed up synagogue in St. John NB, but nothing else. However, Cohen's is a large chain of furniture stores around Newfoundland. I think in gave me an edge a couple of times. LOL.
The rig needs some repair work that I hope to put off until I get back to the States. Found out that Eckerd College will be offering the Oxford certification course that I need to teach English abroad, so I may come back earlier than expected...if they still have space for me. Still practicing the autoharp when it doesn't disturb other campers. At the campground I'm in tonight, there's a band playing tunes from the 50s and 60s. The sky is finally clear enough to see stars...but not the Northern Lights. It's too far south.
Tuesday, August 9, 2011
Newfoundland/Labrador Folk Festival 2011
In spite of the cold and rain, several hundred brave souls sat in Bannerman Park last Friday night, listening to some great Canadian music. Rik Barron does songs for children and adults with that testosterone loaded huskiness of many Newfie men. A French speaking group from Quebec had everyone buzzed with high pitched, fast, klezmer-sounding songs.
Saturday afternoon was cancelled and I missed Saturday night's fun.
But Sunday was a day that will live in good memory forever. First, they moved everything into the local St, John's hockey rink/stadium. Secondly, the music went even further than Friday! To give you more of an idea about it I've collected some of my favorites on my YouTube channel, twinsbubbe2. Also there are several CDs enroute to Florida with more good stuff. If you can't get to my channel, search for No more Fish no Fishermen, Shelley Posen (Finer Kind), Sonnys Dream by Ron Hynes, Woman of Labrador and Ryan's Fancy. These are some of my top picks. Enjoy!
I'm hoping that the giant iceberg will be far south enough for me to see it this weekend. It's off of L'Anse aux Meadows today.
Although I'm beginning the trek home, still want to
a. see whales
b. see the Northern Lights
c. have a Jiggs Dinner
d. see one last moose
What could be better?!!!!!
Tonight is at Brigus, a sweet historic tourist town.
Saturday afternoon was cancelled and I missed Saturday night's fun.
But Sunday was a day that will live in good memory forever. First, they moved everything into the local St, John's hockey rink/stadium. Secondly, the music went even further than Friday! To give you more of an idea about it I've collected some of my favorites on my YouTube channel, twinsbubbe2. Also there are several CDs enroute to Florida with more good stuff. If you can't get to my channel, search for No more Fish no Fishermen, Shelley Posen (Finer Kind), Sonnys Dream by Ron Hynes, Woman of Labrador and Ryan's Fancy. These are some of my top picks. Enjoy!
I'm hoping that the giant iceberg will be far south enough for me to see it this weekend. It's off of L'Anse aux Meadows today.
Although I'm beginning the trek home, still want to
a. see whales
b. see the Northern Lights
c. have a Jiggs Dinner
d. see one last moose
What could be better?!!!!!
Tonight is at Brigus, a sweet historic tourist town.
Tuesday, August 2, 2011
St. Johns
August 2
Well, here I am in the Newfoundland capital city. About 100,000 folks live here. The downtown area is made up of restored buildings turned into restaurants and gift shops. It's on the waterfront, which is quite small. St. Johns is surrounded by mountains with old gunneries on the tops. There is only a narrow passage between the hills to get in to the harbor, so it precludes cruise ships and other humongous vessels. A small river runs through the city and, opposite the downtown area, is Pippy Park.
This has been designated one of the nation's best urban parks. It has a large campground (where I'm staying), a botanical garden, a pony farm with rides, mini-golf,lots of trails and the Fluvarium. With all this and seeing the various historic sites, there has been something new every day.
And guess who else was at the park. The Holiday Rambler folks! Good fun.
I had my autoharp tuned up at the famous O'Brien's Music Store. Between sights, it's been fun to play. I also purchased a kid's guitar to try to get back in to that. My new repetoire of songs lends itself to those instruments nicely. Tonight is a concert by Shanneyganock, a well known group that plays traditional music. Tomorrow is the annual (since 1818) Regatta on Quiddi Vidi Lake in downtown St. Johns. This coming weekend is the Newfoundland/Labrador Folk Festival---a nice way to end my stay.
Have been reading the Steig Larssen mysteries voraciously. They are hypnotizing. Also found a biography of Brasseur and Eisler, a wonderful pairs skating team from the 80s and 90s. Unfortunately, NL does not seem to have an arena to cultivate hockey teams or figure skaters. I'm getting tired of panfried cod and lobster season is over. The chowders continue to be delicious and I have yet to sample peas pudding.
All in all, this is a very relaxing time. But next week,the trip south begins. First thing on the agenda will be Prince Edward Island. I miss home and folks, but not all that heat. Hope to see the Northern Lights and stars before I go.
Well, here I am in the Newfoundland capital city. About 100,000 folks live here. The downtown area is made up of restored buildings turned into restaurants and gift shops. It's on the waterfront, which is quite small. St. Johns is surrounded by mountains with old gunneries on the tops. There is only a narrow passage between the hills to get in to the harbor, so it precludes cruise ships and other humongous vessels. A small river runs through the city and, opposite the downtown area, is Pippy Park.
This has been designated one of the nation's best urban parks. It has a large campground (where I'm staying), a botanical garden, a pony farm with rides, mini-golf,lots of trails and the Fluvarium. With all this and seeing the various historic sites, there has been something new every day.
And guess who else was at the park. The Holiday Rambler folks! Good fun.
I had my autoharp tuned up at the famous O'Brien's Music Store. Between sights, it's been fun to play. I also purchased a kid's guitar to try to get back in to that. My new repetoire of songs lends itself to those instruments nicely. Tonight is a concert by Shanneyganock, a well known group that plays traditional music. Tomorrow is the annual (since 1818) Regatta on Quiddi Vidi Lake in downtown St. Johns. This coming weekend is the Newfoundland/Labrador Folk Festival---a nice way to end my stay.
Have been reading the Steig Larssen mysteries voraciously. They are hypnotizing. Also found a biography of Brasseur and Eisler, a wonderful pairs skating team from the 80s and 90s. Unfortunately, NL does not seem to have an arena to cultivate hockey teams or figure skaters. I'm getting tired of panfried cod and lobster season is over. The chowders continue to be delicious and I have yet to sample peas pudding.
All in all, this is a very relaxing time. But next week,the trip south begins. First thing on the agenda will be Prince Edward Island. I miss home and folks, but not all that heat. Hope to see the Northern Lights and stars before I go.
Tuesday, July 19, 2011
Music, music, music
Twillingate is a must-do for any NL visitor. It has a colorful history and lovely ocean views, but mostly it is a music lovers paradise. First, there is a dinner theater troupe that does traditional music and humorous skits. It was made more enjoyable by the company of two couples from Ontario. We laughed the night away as locals played a mean accordian and made fun of daily life in the province. I was introduced to a unique Newfie instrument: the Ugly Stick. It is made with beer bottle caps and a mop. I'm bringing one back...it's just indescribable.
Twillingate also has a local musical theater company. They were performing The Wreck of the Schooner Begonia written by a local musician, E. Cameron Stockley. Her husband runs Iceberg Tours. It is based on a true story. A couple from the Holiday Rambler caravan (all of whom were in the campground with me) traded notes and shared a good time. Cameron wrote several really cute songs and the staging was creative.
The best thing by far, however, was a performance by The Split Peas. They are a wonderful group of seven women who started out in a community choir some 18 years ago. Propelled by Twillingate singer/songwriter, Ada Piercey-Jenkins, they harmonize in all sorts of musical styles: sha boom, sha boom to traditional English ballads to lyrical romances to Menopausal Blues. They are well known in the Maritime Provinces but don't travel like they used to....possibly because the youngest is 48! If you Google them you'll find a nice video done by the CBC in 2009. YouTube only has the music for Toutans and Tea (song).
Twillingate also features two museums of local history and at least two excellent restaurants. One served up a Jiggs dinner with pea pudding, which I missed for crab au gratin and blueberry crumble.
It was a terrific week, but I had to move on to Eastport. I was expecting an arts colony, but found only an Accordian Festival. My campground made up for everything though. On Saturday night, they had a Kitchen Party (we call them hootnannies or house parties). Six guitar players, one guy who played the concertina and harmonica and several aspiring singers laughed and played for hours. It was spontaneous and informal and we all sang along. If you wanted to play or sing, you just got on the list. And to top it off, the Holiday Rambler caravan arrived with my new friends.
The drive to St. John's included a visit to the Barbour Living Heritage museum in Newtown and a night at the municipal campground in Gambo. Now I'm just taking some downtime--especially since there is WiFi here--and will head to the Shamrock Festival on Thursday.
Read The Life of Pi and am listening to all the CDs of folks I've heard (especially The Split Peas). Crochet is at a standstill since it requires an accompanying tv.
I know how lucky I am to be able to experience all this. Hope to do it again, but with some company.
Twillingate also has a local musical theater company. They were performing The Wreck of the Schooner Begonia written by a local musician, E. Cameron Stockley. Her husband runs Iceberg Tours. It is based on a true story. A couple from the Holiday Rambler caravan (all of whom were in the campground with me) traded notes and shared a good time. Cameron wrote several really cute songs and the staging was creative.
The best thing by far, however, was a performance by The Split Peas. They are a wonderful group of seven women who started out in a community choir some 18 years ago. Propelled by Twillingate singer/songwriter, Ada Piercey-Jenkins, they harmonize in all sorts of musical styles: sha boom, sha boom to traditional English ballads to lyrical romances to Menopausal Blues. They are well known in the Maritime Provinces but don't travel like they used to....possibly because the youngest is 48! If you Google them you'll find a nice video done by the CBC in 2009. YouTube only has the music for Toutans and Tea (song).
Twillingate also features two museums of local history and at least two excellent restaurants. One served up a Jiggs dinner with pea pudding, which I missed for crab au gratin and blueberry crumble.
It was a terrific week, but I had to move on to Eastport. I was expecting an arts colony, but found only an Accordian Festival. My campground made up for everything though. On Saturday night, they had a Kitchen Party (we call them hootnannies or house parties). Six guitar players, one guy who played the concertina and harmonica and several aspiring singers laughed and played for hours. It was spontaneous and informal and we all sang along. If you wanted to play or sing, you just got on the list. And to top it off, the Holiday Rambler caravan arrived with my new friends.
The drive to St. John's included a visit to the Barbour Living Heritage museum in Newtown and a night at the municipal campground in Gambo. Now I'm just taking some downtime--especially since there is WiFi here--and will head to the Shamrock Festival on Thursday.
Read The Life of Pi and am listening to all the CDs of folks I've heard (especially The Split Peas). Crochet is at a standstill since it requires an accompanying tv.
I know how lucky I am to be able to experience all this. Hope to do it again, but with some company.
Sunday, July 10, 2011
On the road again
Two weeks and two days it took to straighten out my credit card situation. TWO WEEKS!!! O.K. In fairness, some of it involved the postal strike in Canada. But to add insult to injury, once I got back to Newfoundland from Maine, some noncomp at Mastercard, who hadn't read her email for ten days, inactivated the card again!! A screaming, crying, hysterical call to their Help Desk got it taken care of immediately.
Lessons learned:
1. Use Visa when travelling abroad.
2. Be sure someone at home has your Power of Attorney.
3. Only use your debit card at banks.
As of today, I'm in Great Falls-Windsor, beginning my journey back down. Visited Campbello while waiting in Maine. Lots of music festivals are in my future.
Had my first Donair. Found The Girl who Played with Fire by Steig Larssen at a library book sale. It's perfect for murder mystery fans...a real page turner! Found more Newfie music CDs and am wearing them out. Hillier remains my favorite....he is SO talented.
I truly love it up here. The western side of Newfoundland is full of beautiful BIG panoramas. Folks are extrordinarily friendly and try to be helpful. Life is grounded in the pleasure of relationships with others..sometimes set to tunes. It's a trusting environment. My sobriety is blooming with emotions long buried. Joy is finding its way back into my life.
Lessons learned:
1. Use Visa when travelling abroad.
2. Be sure someone at home has your Power of Attorney.
3. Only use your debit card at banks.
As of today, I'm in Great Falls-Windsor, beginning my journey back down. Visited Campbello while waiting in Maine. Lots of music festivals are in my future.
Had my first Donair. Found The Girl who Played with Fire by Steig Larssen at a library book sale. It's perfect for murder mystery fans...a real page turner! Found more Newfie music CDs and am wearing them out. Hillier remains my favorite....he is SO talented.
I truly love it up here. The western side of Newfoundland is full of beautiful BIG panoramas. Folks are extrordinarily friendly and try to be helpful. Life is grounded in the pleasure of relationships with others..sometimes set to tunes. It's a trusting environment. My sobriety is blooming with emotions long buried. Joy is finding its way back into my life.
Monday, June 27, 2011
Big rut in the road
Someone stole my debit card number and used it to withdraw cash in New York. The past week has been one of abrupt departure, many tears, fast driving and general high drama. I'm in Calais Maine, finally getting this straightened out. Waiting for money and documents will give me some time to settle back down and rationally decide what's next. Thanks to Michelle D., brother Mike and Robin R. for helping to get this solved...
But the quick trip out of Newfoundland included some more great music. Wade Hillier (surprize), his daughters and a Newfie folkie named Daniel Payne provided the Saturday night Iceberg Festival entertainment. One of the daughters did a sweet rendition of "If I Die Young". Wade continued to dazzle with his songs and went into high gear when he and Daniel did some duets. Truly, truly wonderful stuff, great talent and much gusto.
As the drama was unfolding, I did get a chance to attend Neddy's Night at the Gros Morne Theater Festival. Several of the songs were old time things by NF writers. Interesting and authentic, but lacking the spirit, skill or passion of the previous event.
Finally, the ferry ride back to the mainland had Dave Pike and his partner Judy singing to the passengers. His background music was pre-recorded and reminiscent of the Sunday polka show on WMNF...oom pa pa, oom pa pa. And he did some Elvis songs. Well, even Newfie music can sound like lounge music...enough said.
So here I sit in the campground, biding time, cleaning out the camper, crocheting, reading and generally trying to relax and decide where to go next. Looks like there's something going on at the clubhouse tonight...
But the quick trip out of Newfoundland included some more great music. Wade Hillier (surprize), his daughters and a Newfie folkie named Daniel Payne provided the Saturday night Iceberg Festival entertainment. One of the daughters did a sweet rendition of "If I Die Young". Wade continued to dazzle with his songs and went into high gear when he and Daniel did some duets. Truly, truly wonderful stuff, great talent and much gusto.
As the drama was unfolding, I did get a chance to attend Neddy's Night at the Gros Morne Theater Festival. Several of the songs were old time things by NF writers. Interesting and authentic, but lacking the spirit, skill or passion of the previous event.
Finally, the ferry ride back to the mainland had Dave Pike and his partner Judy singing to the passengers. His background music was pre-recorded and reminiscent of the Sunday polka show on WMNF...oom pa pa, oom pa pa. And he did some Elvis songs. Well, even Newfie music can sound like lounge music...enough said.
So here I sit in the campground, biding time, cleaning out the camper, crocheting, reading and generally trying to relax and decide where to go next. Looks like there's something going on at the clubhouse tonight...
Saturday, June 18, 2011
At L'Anse aux Meadows
The UNESCO World Heritage site sits on a small knoll above the water. Moose roam freely and the wind blows relentlessly. From the Welcome building you can see rocky hills, small trees and the bay dotted with icebergs. The long wooden walkway down takes you around the unexcavated buildings: blacksmith shop, women's hall, houses, meeting house, etc. At the farthest end is a reproduced sod house with costumed interpreters, waiting by the fires. It is amazing how comfortable a sod covered building can be. Built in platform beds line the walls and are covered with various furs. Stored items are simply hung on the wall. People before us adapted readily to their environment to meet their needs. We should all do so well today...
The area of L'Anse yielded a number of surprizes. It is dotted with small towns (St. Anthony 3,000, St. Lunaire-Griquet 900, Raleigh about 90, et al) populated with families who have been here for generations. In that sense the atmosphere is very much like my father's hometown of Allegan, Michigan. Homes are small, everyone belongs to a church. women are adept at various crafts. Traditionally, it's a man's world. Everybody knows everybody, is probably related by marriage, and is trying to preserve a sense of community/family. There are few jobs here...fishing has died...and the young people are moving away. Those remaining are are gentle folk, greeting you with G'Day and calling you My Love. This cold land is warmed by the sweetness of its people.
Traditional Newfoundland music thrives here. There was a kitchen/house party as part of the local Iceberg Festival that featured a local family of singers, a young man playing ukelele and a professor of sociology on guitar, mandolin, stick (like a dulcimer) and harmonica. The music was mostly rolicking and followed by storytelling, a traditional art form up here.
At the Norse Restaurant, Wade Hillier played. His command of the guitar was mind-boggling. Riffs and trills were perfectly placed to heighten the spirit of each song. I think his fingers were going ten ways at once! And his robust enthusiasm for the music made for a perfect presentation. I am bringing back two CDs he made so I will always remember his sound. He is a talented jewel, waiting to be discovered. You can find him on YouTube.
Tonight--my last night in the area--I'm going to another Iceberg Festival concert in a parish hall. Local musicians will be performing. I'm looking forward to a savored memory there.
Other than that, visits were made to Norstead (a living history museum), Burnt Cape Ecological Preserve, many small town heritage centers and the tiny public libraries. I'm reading Sarah Paretsky's Blackmailed and listening to CDs of several Newfie musicians. This is a wonderful place. It will be tough to leave.
The area of L'Anse yielded a number of surprizes. It is dotted with small towns (St. Anthony 3,000, St. Lunaire-Griquet 900, Raleigh about 90, et al) populated with families who have been here for generations. In that sense the atmosphere is very much like my father's hometown of Allegan, Michigan. Homes are small, everyone belongs to a church. women are adept at various crafts. Traditionally, it's a man's world. Everybody knows everybody, is probably related by marriage, and is trying to preserve a sense of community/family. There are few jobs here...fishing has died...and the young people are moving away. Those remaining are are gentle folk, greeting you with G'Day and calling you My Love. This cold land is warmed by the sweetness of its people.
Traditional Newfoundland music thrives here. There was a kitchen/house party as part of the local Iceberg Festival that featured a local family of singers, a young man playing ukelele and a professor of sociology on guitar, mandolin, stick (like a dulcimer) and harmonica. The music was mostly rolicking and followed by storytelling, a traditional art form up here.
At the Norse Restaurant, Wade Hillier played. His command of the guitar was mind-boggling. Riffs and trills were perfectly placed to heighten the spirit of each song. I think his fingers were going ten ways at once! And his robust enthusiasm for the music made for a perfect presentation. I am bringing back two CDs he made so I will always remember his sound. He is a talented jewel, waiting to be discovered. You can find him on YouTube.
Tonight--my last night in the area--I'm going to another Iceberg Festival concert in a parish hall. Local musicians will be performing. I'm looking forward to a savored memory there.
Other than that, visits were made to Norstead (a living history museum), Burnt Cape Ecological Preserve, many small town heritage centers and the tiny public libraries. I'm reading Sarah Paretsky's Blackmailed and listening to CDs of several Newfie musicians. This is a wonderful place. It will be tough to leave.
Friday, June 10, 2011
Almost there :)
The ferry from Nova Scotia to Newfoundland was delayed for an hour due to bad weather. But when we drove off the boat five hours later, it was beautiful!
And for the whole next day, the sun shone. That was good because it was a long driving day with no places ready to be visited except the Corner Brook Insectarium...which the twins would have loved.
But today, I got up with the sun (easy to do when you're in the camper) and drove through Gros Morne Provincial Park very early. It was foggy and raining again, but a lovely drive. The foliage is not as willowy as NS: trees are shorter and scrubbier looking and the road along the ocean looks surrounded by bogs. It's like driving up to the top of a mountain and then into a steep valley.
But here's the best part. I'm driving slowly along, ogling the scenery, and a moose jumps out to cross the road. She settled herself on the pavement and slowly strutted into the underbrush, about 50 feet ahead of me. I went nuts! It happened so fast, I couldn't get a photo. So, I asked myself, how does a moose decide when to cross the road?" (I will research jokes of the same ilk) Trying to think like a moose, I noticed that there had been trees on both sides of the road and no ditches or rails. So slowly I drove along, furiously seeking other such places in hopes of another sighting. A big hare ran across the road, but no more moose/meese/mooses (?). Driving forlornly again on flat terrain, the car came around a curve and what did I see? Another moose! Grazing peacefully next to the road at the side of a large open field. Cars whizzed by. She just nodded to us and quietly returned to her feasting. So much for trying to figure out moose mentality. Maybe I've been alone too much.....
Anyway, I am camped in the fog, cold and rain about 50 feet from the ocean at Port du Choix (pronounced locally as "Por doo Shwaw"). Tomorrow I drive to St. Anthony, 176km away, and then visit L'Anse aux Meadows. Here are some links that may be interesting to you:
http://topdocumentaryfilms.com/matter-of-heart
http://www.viking-trail.com
http://www.nfb.ca/film/vinland_mystery
I'm debating going on to Laborador afterwards. But as thrilling and adventurous as this has been so far, I am missing friends, family, my dog Charlie and my sweet, sweet grandchildren. Sending many hugs and kisses to all. Thinking fondly of you...
And for the whole next day, the sun shone. That was good because it was a long driving day with no places ready to be visited except the Corner Brook Insectarium...which the twins would have loved.
But today, I got up with the sun (easy to do when you're in the camper) and drove through Gros Morne Provincial Park very early. It was foggy and raining again, but a lovely drive. The foliage is not as willowy as NS: trees are shorter and scrubbier looking and the road along the ocean looks surrounded by bogs. It's like driving up to the top of a mountain and then into a steep valley.
But here's the best part. I'm driving slowly along, ogling the scenery, and a moose jumps out to cross the road. She settled herself on the pavement and slowly strutted into the underbrush, about 50 feet ahead of me. I went nuts! It happened so fast, I couldn't get a photo. So, I asked myself, how does a moose decide when to cross the road?" (I will research jokes of the same ilk) Trying to think like a moose, I noticed that there had been trees on both sides of the road and no ditches or rails. So slowly I drove along, furiously seeking other such places in hopes of another sighting. A big hare ran across the road, but no more moose/meese/mooses (?). Driving forlornly again on flat terrain, the car came around a curve and what did I see? Another moose! Grazing peacefully next to the road at the side of a large open field. Cars whizzed by. She just nodded to us and quietly returned to her feasting. So much for trying to figure out moose mentality. Maybe I've been alone too much.....
Anyway, I am camped in the fog, cold and rain about 50 feet from the ocean at Port du Choix (pronounced locally as "Por doo Shwaw"). Tomorrow I drive to St. Anthony, 176km away, and then visit L'Anse aux Meadows. Here are some links that may be interesting to you:
http://topdocumentaryfilms.com/matter-of-heart
http://www.viking-trail.com
http://www.nfb.ca/film/vinland_mystery
I'm debating going on to Laborador afterwards. But as thrilling and adventurous as this has been so far, I am missing friends, family, my dog Charlie and my sweet, sweet grandchildren. Sending many hugs and kisses to all. Thinking fondly of you...
Sunday, June 5, 2011
Hello again!
It is STILL RAINING!! And it's in the 40s at night, 50s or 60s in the daytime. The locals tell me that this year is very unusual. Business folk are missing tourists. It's usually very busy by this time of year they say. I've stuck to indoor venues, but have several to see on the way back. Also missed Campbello and Grand Manon on the way up.
Mahone Bay is on the south coast of Nova Scotia. It is a very pretty tourist town. Had my first Canadian fish chowder at the Salt Spray Cafe. Found a very nice quilt shop, loaded with well-done local pieces.
Lunenburg, a UN World Heritage Site, was next. It's a quaint restored town, meant for tourists. Their Fishing Museum is very informative...especially about boat building. The city government even runs a campground down town! Then it was on to Halifax. Much time was spent just resting up. All the driving caught up with me.
In Halifax,the Nova Scotia Museum runs one of 47 sites: the Immigration Museum. This was fascinating. It's right on the pier where immigrants first landed. The exhibits stress the vital role of Aid Societies and other volunteers in helping folks get settled. Also visited the Dartmouth History Museum and the Black Cultural Center. Drove out to Peggy's Cove one afternoon and spent time with a local artist learning about growing up there.
But resting up, did lots of crocheting. Even made a doll with some clothes. One yarn shop had cotton yarn, just right for the task.
This past week has been a very slow drive along the southeastern coast. It is a lovely ride along the ocean, which was occasionally visible (lol). I was hoping to see whales, but none yet. The area clearly is not for tourists. Small fishing villages of ten to forty houses and a church dot the coastline. Once in a while you find a convenience store, but no gas pumps or motels. I found some great campsites right on the ocean though. Hung out with two couples from Ottawa who were waiting for a ferry with me. We visited the Goldboro Interpretive site and shared some tea. Also saw the Fisherman's Life museum.
Sturbrooke Village was just right. It is actually part of the existing town that has been blocked off and restored. It's another site of the Museum of Nova Scotia. Demonstrations of candlemaking, butter making, weaving, soapmaking, making hooked rugs, and other rugged life skills were good. It made me appreciate even more how talented women were then and how hard they worked. It is very much like Williamsburg, but not as big or commercialized. The homemade food at the restaurant is great---molasses cake, apple cake---yummmmm!
WiFi has not been available very much. I'm in Port Hawkesbury now, just over a bridge to Cape Breton. Because of the rain and cold, I'm going to hang out for a few days and see how the weather looks before taking the ferry to Newfoundland. And I read about record heat in the U.S. What is up?!!
No more books on CD available, so found some sale music items and have been listening to them: Janis Joplin, Leonard Cohen and Johnny Cash. Hope to find some good Celtic stuff and sea chanteys soon. Furiously reading travel brochures and a locally produced book on Peggy's Cove.
Mahone Bay is on the south coast of Nova Scotia. It is a very pretty tourist town. Had my first Canadian fish chowder at the Salt Spray Cafe. Found a very nice quilt shop, loaded with well-done local pieces.
Lunenburg, a UN World Heritage Site, was next. It's a quaint restored town, meant for tourists. Their Fishing Museum is very informative...especially about boat building. The city government even runs a campground down town! Then it was on to Halifax. Much time was spent just resting up. All the driving caught up with me.
In Halifax,the Nova Scotia Museum runs one of 47 sites: the Immigration Museum. This was fascinating. It's right on the pier where immigrants first landed. The exhibits stress the vital role of Aid Societies and other volunteers in helping folks get settled. Also visited the Dartmouth History Museum and the Black Cultural Center. Drove out to Peggy's Cove one afternoon and spent time with a local artist learning about growing up there.
But resting up, did lots of crocheting. Even made a doll with some clothes. One yarn shop had cotton yarn, just right for the task.
This past week has been a very slow drive along the southeastern coast. It is a lovely ride along the ocean, which was occasionally visible (lol). I was hoping to see whales, but none yet. The area clearly is not for tourists. Small fishing villages of ten to forty houses and a church dot the coastline. Once in a while you find a convenience store, but no gas pumps or motels. I found some great campsites right on the ocean though. Hung out with two couples from Ottawa who were waiting for a ferry with me. We visited the Goldboro Interpretive site and shared some tea. Also saw the Fisherman's Life museum.
Sturbrooke Village was just right. It is actually part of the existing town that has been blocked off and restored. It's another site of the Museum of Nova Scotia. Demonstrations of candlemaking, butter making, weaving, soapmaking, making hooked rugs, and other rugged life skills were good. It made me appreciate even more how talented women were then and how hard they worked. It is very much like Williamsburg, but not as big or commercialized. The homemade food at the restaurant is great---molasses cake, apple cake---yummmmm!
WiFi has not been available very much. I'm in Port Hawkesbury now, just over a bridge to Cape Breton. Because of the rain and cold, I'm going to hang out for a few days and see how the weather looks before taking the ferry to Newfoundland. And I read about record heat in the U.S. What is up?!!
No more books on CD available, so found some sale music items and have been listening to them: Janis Joplin, Leonard Cohen and Johnny Cash. Hope to find some good Celtic stuff and sea chanteys soon. Furiously reading travel brochures and a locally produced book on Peggy's Cove.
Monday, May 23, 2011
On the Road
Victoria Day, May 23,2011
Just a quick note. Drove up to Canada along the Maine coast. Weather was overcast. The small towns along Hwy 1 are loaded with restored Victorian houses and tons of them are for sale. Must be the economy. Spent 3 rainy days in St. John, British Columbia and am now near Truro, Nova Scotia...about in the middle of the country. Looks like the rain is clearing out so I'm getting ready for some more exciting visits. Gas is almost $5.00 per gallon. So glad to find an open campsite. Kisses.
Just a quick note. Drove up to Canada along the Maine coast. Weather was overcast. The small towns along Hwy 1 are loaded with restored Victorian houses and tons of them are for sale. Must be the economy. Spent 3 rainy days in St. John, British Columbia and am now near Truro, Nova Scotia...about in the middle of the country. Looks like the rain is clearing out so I'm getting ready for some more exciting visits. Gas is almost $5.00 per gallon. So glad to find an open campsite. Kisses.
Monday, May 16, 2011
Rain, rain, rain
May 15, 2011
Hi from Bar Harbor, Maine. I guess that, like Seattle, rain is the harbinger of Spring up here. Only one day of sun in the past week! It's supposed to last throughout the Northeast until next week. But I cope...visiting the few indoor places that are open and figuring what I'm going to visit on the way back down.
The John Greenleaf Whittier home was something else. It is owned by a private foundation and is truly representative of a farm family of the 1830s. A little old man who used to be a teacher is the local self-taught expert on Whittier's life and work. He had some wonderful local stories and insights into the era. I didn't think of Whittier as a radical, but apparently he was actively involved with the other greats of his time. He was an active Abolitionist and an early advocate for women's suffrage. My kinda guy.
At the Kennebunkport Public Library book sale, I found a book of poems and have been re-reading some of Whittier's work. (No, George and Barbara were not available for lunch...)
I'm also looking again at William Wadsworth Longfellow, whose childhood home is in Portland, Maine. It was one of several sites that were of interest. Portland is a lovely city of about 68,000 permanent residents and lots of summer tourists. Interestingly, it is a resettlement location for Catholic Charities and there are many people from Sudan and Somalia residing there. It's one of the places I'd like to revisit.
Misty though it was, this morning I took a drive through Acadia National Park. The area was first named Eden...and appropriately so. It is overwhelming. Big waves massage the seawalls. Whispering streams flow through the forests and sometimes make small waterfalls over the rocks cut to make the roads. Little bunches of white flowers peek up from inch tall grass. Each curve in the road presents a breathtaking view of assorted greens. This is an ideal place to appreciate nature's terrors and good spirits. I want to stay for a while, but when it's sunny.
It looks like only stuff in the Atlantic Provinces big (relative term) cities is open now. Historic sites and museums in smaller towns are still closed so I'm just going to soldier on to Newfoundland and just enjoy the scenery and the ride...
Tried some sauteed fiddleheads and my first lobster roll. McCloskey's children's books Blueberries for Sal ans A Day in Maine are in my future.
Hugs to all.
Hi from Bar Harbor, Maine. I guess that, like Seattle, rain is the harbinger of Spring up here. Only one day of sun in the past week! It's supposed to last throughout the Northeast until next week. But I cope...visiting the few indoor places that are open and figuring what I'm going to visit on the way back down.
The John Greenleaf Whittier home was something else. It is owned by a private foundation and is truly representative of a farm family of the 1830s. A little old man who used to be a teacher is the local self-taught expert on Whittier's life and work. He had some wonderful local stories and insights into the era. I didn't think of Whittier as a radical, but apparently he was actively involved with the other greats of his time. He was an active Abolitionist and an early advocate for women's suffrage. My kinda guy.
At the Kennebunkport Public Library book sale, I found a book of poems and have been re-reading some of Whittier's work. (No, George and Barbara were not available for lunch...)
I'm also looking again at William Wadsworth Longfellow, whose childhood home is in Portland, Maine. It was one of several sites that were of interest. Portland is a lovely city of about 68,000 permanent residents and lots of summer tourists. Interestingly, it is a resettlement location for Catholic Charities and there are many people from Sudan and Somalia residing there. It's one of the places I'd like to revisit.
Misty though it was, this morning I took a drive through Acadia National Park. The area was first named Eden...and appropriately so. It is overwhelming. Big waves massage the seawalls. Whispering streams flow through the forests and sometimes make small waterfalls over the rocks cut to make the roads. Little bunches of white flowers peek up from inch tall grass. Each curve in the road presents a breathtaking view of assorted greens. This is an ideal place to appreciate nature's terrors and good spirits. I want to stay for a while, but when it's sunny.
It looks like only stuff in the Atlantic Provinces big (relative term) cities is open now. Historic sites and museums in smaller towns are still closed so I'm just going to soldier on to Newfoundland and just enjoy the scenery and the ride...
Tried some sauteed fiddleheads and my first lobster roll. McCloskey's children's books Blueberries for Sal ans A Day in Maine are in my future.
Hugs to all.
Tuesday, May 10, 2011
Lovin' MA
Dang, I love it up here. Maybe because it's the kind of land I grew up in. Maybe it's because I'm just comparing it to Florida. But here, there seems to be an peaceful harmony between people and nature. Sunshine grows flowers; it doesn't quickly burn you. Rivers flow freely, over and under large rocks. You don't have to fear fish or snakes rising out of the water. Lakes with docks invite you for a swim. No alligators or sharks. There are more than palm trees. Colors abound in shrubs, blossoms and new leaves. Flowers grow naturally in yards and fields. There is no landscaper apparent. It's so real and natural. The land is not raped and plowed.
Clearly, the drive through central Massachusetts had an impact. Holyoke, Amherst, Deerfield. Gorgeous. Spring is a great time to travel here. However, Kate and Bonnie, old college friends in Boston, are out of town (getting warm in Aruba) for a while. So, a visit to them is postponed until the trip south.
I visited the Emily Dickenson site and got more revved up. It's sparked a renewed interest in her and her work. The website is informative and fun. Historic Deerfield is lovely and gives you a real bang for your twelve bucks. And there was even a good campground nearby.
Monday is not a good day to be a tourist. Lots is closed. So today, Tuesday, I'm backtracking from Haverhill to Lowell. The Women Mill Workers exhibit and the quilting museum beckon. Then tomorrow there's a visit to the home of John Greenlief Whittier. It's closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
Just listened to The House of Abraham, the story of the Todd family...ripe with new insights (to me) on Abraham Lincoln. Met a family from Tampa at the hotel. They are on their way back home, after a funeral. Life is good. Wish you all were here, tho.
P.S. Threw in the towel and bought a couple of disposable cameras.
Clearly, the drive through central Massachusetts had an impact. Holyoke, Amherst, Deerfield. Gorgeous. Spring is a great time to travel here. However, Kate and Bonnie, old college friends in Boston, are out of town (getting warm in Aruba) for a while. So, a visit to them is postponed until the trip south.
I visited the Emily Dickenson site and got more revved up. It's sparked a renewed interest in her and her work. The website is informative and fun. Historic Deerfield is lovely and gives you a real bang for your twelve bucks. And there was even a good campground nearby.
Monday is not a good day to be a tourist. Lots is closed. So today, Tuesday, I'm backtracking from Haverhill to Lowell. The Women Mill Workers exhibit and the quilting museum beckon. Then tomorrow there's a visit to the home of John Greenlief Whittier. It's closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
Just listened to The House of Abraham, the story of the Todd family...ripe with new insights (to me) on Abraham Lincoln. Met a family from Tampa at the hotel. They are on their way back home, after a funeral. Life is good. Wish you all were here, tho.
P.S. Threw in the towel and bought a couple of disposable cameras.
Saturday, May 7, 2011
A Beautiful Day
Birches! I see birches!! Slender white fingers wiggle through the light green of barely bloomed oak and hickory. And beaver dams rise gently in fast flowing streams. Today it was sunny. In places of Old Sturbridge Village you could hear only the breeze rustling through new leaves. Blue skies all around. I love the Berkshires.
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
Up the Hudson
May 4 2011
After bubbling about the lovely weather, I am sorry to say that Spring has not in sprung in the Great State of New York. In addition, many of the sites I wanted to visit are not open.
Having said that, visits to several places were great. The library and birthplace of FDR showcased his proudest achievement: Social Security. In addition there was a special display on the subject. I'd read several biographies, but none seemed to capture SS as his greatest achievement. He was such a great people person. Minutes away is Eleanor's retreat, Valkill. It's quite modest for the lead writer of the International Declaration of Human Rights. But it's very peaceful and the Park Service guide tells delightful stories!
The only thing open yet in Albany is the New York State Library and Museum. So, I'm holed up in the Motel 6 waiting for the rain to stop. I've decided to crochet a baby layette for no one in particular. Next stop: Stockbridge, MA and then Old Sturbridge Village. Hopefully the temperatures will rise soon. L'Anse aux Meadows doesn't open till June. Just read that archaeologists have uncovered a Basque fishing village in southern Labrador.
Love you, miss you.
After bubbling about the lovely weather, I am sorry to say that Spring has not in sprung in the Great State of New York. In addition, many of the sites I wanted to visit are not open.
Having said that, visits to several places were great. The library and birthplace of FDR showcased his proudest achievement: Social Security. In addition there was a special display on the subject. I'd read several biographies, but none seemed to capture SS as his greatest achievement. He was such a great people person. Minutes away is Eleanor's retreat, Valkill. It's quite modest for the lead writer of the International Declaration of Human Rights. But it's very peaceful and the Park Service guide tells delightful stories!
The only thing open yet in Albany is the New York State Library and Museum. So, I'm holed up in the Motel 6 waiting for the rain to stop. I've decided to crochet a baby layette for no one in particular. Next stop: Stockbridge, MA and then Old Sturbridge Village. Hopefully the temperatures will rise soon. L'Anse aux Meadows doesn't open till June. Just read that archaeologists have uncovered a Basque fishing village in southern Labrador.
Love you, miss you.
Wednesday, April 27, 2011
The most beautiful human made object
Is without a doubt Frank Lloyd Wright's house, Falling Waters. It's the perfect harmony of Humankind and Nature. It grows out of the dirt and rock of the mountain and gracefully crosses a swift running creek. I could go on....
I've also visited the Woodrow Wilson National Historic Site featuring his birthplace and library, the Old Mill living history farm and the Museum of the Cherokee. Much driving later, I'm in New Paltz, New York, poised to visit all sorts of places up along the Hudson.
Surprisingly, there are numerous places to camp. Until now, they've been few and far from the highway. The "rig" lost the support bar for the propane tank in a parking lot. I'm thinking I'll sell it in NY on the way back to Florida. Many storms, but fairly warm weather. Listened to Lisa Scottolini's Lady Killer--she has great sense of humor and looked like the best available offering at Cracker Barrel. Reading Cold Case by Kate Wilhelm.
I've also visited the Woodrow Wilson National Historic Site featuring his birthplace and library, the Old Mill living history farm and the Museum of the Cherokee. Much driving later, I'm in New Paltz, New York, poised to visit all sorts of places up along the Hudson.
Surprisingly, there are numerous places to camp. Until now, they've been few and far from the highway. The "rig" lost the support bar for the propane tank in a parking lot. I'm thinking I'll sell it in NY on the way back to Florida. Many storms, but fairly warm weather. Listened to Lisa Scottolini's Lady Killer--she has great sense of humor and looked like the best available offering at Cracker Barrel. Reading Cold Case by Kate Wilhelm.
An Easter Surprise
Picture it. Easter Sunday afternoon. The Laurel Hill area of North Carolina. Two Frank Lloyd Wright houses are open for tours!!! Can you believe...
The first home is called Kentuck Knob. It was built when Wright was in his 80s. It is small and sits on top of a small hill in the forest. Typically, it has low ceilings, cantilevered areas and goes from large areas open to the outdoors to small tight halls. The furniture and built-ins are all in cypress. Flagstone floors are throughout the home.
I'd just taken a tour and was waiting for the bus to take us back to the office. It was breezy and overcast. When the bus pulled up, I walked over the gravel drive to wait for the passengers to disembark. The side door of the bus opens and out jumps my former co-worker of 25 years: Abby Connor! Imagine my surprisr: 800 miles from Tampa on an improbable day for public tours. Just goes to show how small the world is.
The first home is called Kentuck Knob. It was built when Wright was in his 80s. It is small and sits on top of a small hill in the forest. Typically, it has low ceilings, cantilevered areas and goes from large areas open to the outdoors to small tight halls. The furniture and built-ins are all in cypress. Flagstone floors are throughout the home.
I'd just taken a tour and was waiting for the bus to take us back to the office. It was breezy and overcast. When the bus pulled up, I walked over the gravel drive to wait for the passengers to disembark. The side door of the bus opens and out jumps my former co-worker of 25 years: Abby Connor! Imagine my surprisr: 800 miles from Tampa on an improbable day for public tours. Just goes to show how small the world is.
Sunday, April 24, 2011
Easter Sunday
Well, it had to happen sooner or later. The alignment went out on the camper and I had to spend four days stranded in Hagertown, MD. Missed all those tornados tho. Although it's advertised all over, even the McDonald's there can't reach a Wi-Fi connection. Read boring with a capital B.
Since I've re-routed, I decided to get a Frank Lloyd Wright fix at Falling Waters. It's one of the most beautiful pieces of architecture I've ever seen...tho only in pictures. Can't wait to get there. After that, it's on to Johnstown, sight of the great flood.The Shenandoah Mountains are lovely. Scenery, tho, doesn't make up for a lack of companionship. Wish you all were here with me.
No luck with the camera, so I'm going to try the cell phone and post the photos elsewhere I guess. Isabelle, tulip photos are coming. I need a techie!! Aaron and Prestin, that would be you. Hugs, Happy Pesach, Happy Easter.
Since I've re-routed, I decided to get a Frank Lloyd Wright fix at Falling Waters. It's one of the most beautiful pieces of architecture I've ever seen...tho only in pictures. Can't wait to get there. After that, it's on to Johnstown, sight of the great flood.The Shenandoah Mountains are lovely. Scenery, tho, doesn't make up for a lack of companionship. Wish you all were here with me.
No luck with the camera, so I'm going to try the cell phone and post the photos elsewhere I guess. Isabelle, tulip photos are coming. I need a techie!! Aaron and Prestin, that would be you. Hugs, Happy Pesach, Happy Easter.
Sunday, April 17, 2011
A Soul in Repose
Asheville. Tucked away in the rolling green mountains of North Carolina. Can it get more beautiful than this? Dogwood, cherry, azalea trees in full bloom. On the Biltmore grounds, tulips, daffodils and blue crocus are flowering. The weather is pleasant during the day and cool at night.
I've stopped here for a few days of respite from the road. People plans keep falling through for a variety of reasons. I'd very much hoped to see stepson Mark Kevin in Pittsburg. I was also looking forward to an autoharp class at the John Campbell School. Maybe one of the lessons I am to learn on this journey is about disappointment.
Milledgeville had several tourist attractions recognizing native son Joel Chandler Harris. Uncle Remus is alive and well there. The O'Connor house was pretty dilapidated, but informative and revealing. However, Alice Walker, one of our generation's premier writers, born in Millidgeville, was recognized with only a display in the public library. Then I got lost in Athens.
So on to NC. Carl Sandburg's house in Flat Rock was the first stop. It sits on top of a hill overlooking a small pond. It's disarmingly plain, but statuesque. Bob Dylan visited with Sandburg on the porch there. I did not know that the great poet loved playing the guitar and singing Woody Guthrie songs. A refresher couse is in my future.
Today was a visit to the Thomas Wolfe National Historic Site. It's nice to match the places and characters with the writer's experience.
And, of course, lots of time was spent at Biltmore. What can one say about it? Opulent, exquisite, worth the budgets of several countries put together. The building is breath-taking, but the grounds are utterly stunning. Windy two lane roads course through the forest. A creek runs alongside the road, crossed by several stone bridges. The estate used to own what is now the Pigsah National Forest. I have to read the camera manual again so you can see pictures.
So, time to regroup, redirect and rest. Listened to The Anglo-Saxon World and am reading Plum Island by DeMille. If the storms aren't too bad tomorrow, I may head up the Blue Ridge Parkway. There's a Cherokee Living History Museum in Cherokee...
I've stopped here for a few days of respite from the road. People plans keep falling through for a variety of reasons. I'd very much hoped to see stepson Mark Kevin in Pittsburg. I was also looking forward to an autoharp class at the John Campbell School. Maybe one of the lessons I am to learn on this journey is about disappointment.
Milledgeville had several tourist attractions recognizing native son Joel Chandler Harris. Uncle Remus is alive and well there. The O'Connor house was pretty dilapidated, but informative and revealing. However, Alice Walker, one of our generation's premier writers, born in Millidgeville, was recognized with only a display in the public library. Then I got lost in Athens.
So on to NC. Carl Sandburg's house in Flat Rock was the first stop. It sits on top of a hill overlooking a small pond. It's disarmingly plain, but statuesque. Bob Dylan visited with Sandburg on the porch there. I did not know that the great poet loved playing the guitar and singing Woody Guthrie songs. A refresher couse is in my future.
Today was a visit to the Thomas Wolfe National Historic Site. It's nice to match the places and characters with the writer's experience.
And, of course, lots of time was spent at Biltmore. What can one say about it? Opulent, exquisite, worth the budgets of several countries put together. The building is breath-taking, but the grounds are utterly stunning. Windy two lane roads course through the forest. A creek runs alongside the road, crossed by several stone bridges. The estate used to own what is now the Pigsah National Forest. I have to read the camera manual again so you can see pictures.
So, time to regroup, redirect and rest. Listened to The Anglo-Saxon World and am reading Plum Island by DeMille. If the storms aren't too bad tomorrow, I may head up the Blue Ridge Parkway. There's a Cherokee Living History Museum in Cherokee...
Wednesday, April 13, 2011
Ambling in Georgia
The countryside in GA is truly lovely. Two lane hilly roads crisscross the east and west sides, spreading out from I75. Rusty satin dirt peeks out of the mountains that have been cut open to allow access. A palate of green grasses and trees merges with the sky. Norwegian pine, scrub trees and a few live oak stand together, swaying. And suddenly, there's a burst of flowers. Dogwood! I thought I'd have to wait till I got to the Carolinas to see it! Glorious, glorious.
In some places, prefab (read mobile) homes are tucked back in the forest. But east of Macon, log and brick abound. Each little town has a gas station, a cafe and a church. Yes, your soul is truly safe in Georgia. Maranatha, Missionary Baptist, True Pentecostal: all are waiting in the woods for you. This is fishing country. Many sparkling ponds abut the road. People pull their boats up and down the hills, seeming to know of special secret spots to visit.
Yesterday was in Thomasville. It's a small place, just over the border from Tallahassee. It began as a winter haven for the Yankee rich. Like Newport, people built "cottages" that have been preserved and renovated. A drive down Dawson Street reminds me of New Orleans. The history center tells you about tourist roots and about families that have been there for generations. A model of southern grace and charm...
The camper is running well. Another GA attraction is low gas prices. After several nights in campgrounds, though, I've landed at the Budget Inn at Milledgeville. Listened to A History of the Celts and am finishing reading Andrew Gross's mystery, The Dark Tide. Tomorrow brings a trip to the old Georgia State Capitol and the home of Flannery O'Connor. I wonder if there is an Indian restaurant in Millidgeville....
In some places, prefab (read mobile) homes are tucked back in the forest. But east of Macon, log and brick abound. Each little town has a gas station, a cafe and a church. Yes, your soul is truly safe in Georgia. Maranatha, Missionary Baptist, True Pentecostal: all are waiting in the woods for you. This is fishing country. Many sparkling ponds abut the road. People pull their boats up and down the hills, seeming to know of special secret spots to visit.
Yesterday was in Thomasville. It's a small place, just over the border from Tallahassee. It began as a winter haven for the Yankee rich. Like Newport, people built "cottages" that have been preserved and renovated. A drive down Dawson Street reminds me of New Orleans. The history center tells you about tourist roots and about families that have been there for generations. A model of southern grace and charm...
The camper is running well. Another GA attraction is low gas prices. After several nights in campgrounds, though, I've landed at the Budget Inn at Milledgeville. Listened to A History of the Celts and am finishing reading Andrew Gross's mystery, The Dark Tide. Tomorrow brings a trip to the old Georgia State Capitol and the home of Flannery O'Connor. I wonder if there is an Indian restaurant in Millidgeville....
Sunday, February 20, 2011
In the beginning....
April 6, 2011
Five years ago, I bought a 1995 Airstream 190 camper. It's like a big van with a bed over the cab. It has all the conveniences of home: stove, microwave, fridge, bath, commode, bed, storage. I knew I wanted to take a long road trip or two once I had the time and retirement was in my future. I used it a bit in Florida, but mostly it stayed with my grandkids family. They enjoyed all kinds of adventure in it.
Originally, I'd thought I'd take the Pan American Highway through South America. I've been to Peru, Guatemala, Honduras and Mexico and really like the history there. And my Spanish has gotten acceptable over the years....at least for a tourist. But going through Chiapas, ripe with revolution and anti-American sentiment, put a damper on that. And it would probably be even more dangerous when I hit Venezuela...if they'd even let me in. So, I looked north.
There was always the wonderful thought of visiting old friends. And I hope to see many of them on this trip. I've become enchanted with the Vikings. Don't laugh. Little did I realize that there were a TON of Viking ruins along the coast of Labrador and Newfoundland in Canada. Whole colonies flourished for short periods after 1000. The Basque fishermen had a thriving cod industry going. There is even a legend that has the Knights Templar moving into the continent through the area. I started reading....and, wow, the fire was lit. Not only would I explore ancestors (my father's side is Scandanavian), I would also get to luxuriate in the kind of scenery, weather and land that I adore. Maine lobster was everywhere! I'd learn some French too.
Also, I've never had a chance to really explore all of the history in New England...nor have I seen the leaves change up there. Massachusetts is especially inviting. Old friends, the Guthrie Center and writers' homes draw me to it. And there is a figure skating training center in Simsbury that hosts many internationally known skaters.
So, this is the story of my trip. I hope you all enjoy it.
Five years ago, I bought a 1995 Airstream 190 camper. It's like a big van with a bed over the cab. It has all the conveniences of home: stove, microwave, fridge, bath, commode, bed, storage. I knew I wanted to take a long road trip or two once I had the time and retirement was in my future. I used it a bit in Florida, but mostly it stayed with my grandkids family. They enjoyed all kinds of adventure in it.
Originally, I'd thought I'd take the Pan American Highway through South America. I've been to Peru, Guatemala, Honduras and Mexico and really like the history there. And my Spanish has gotten acceptable over the years....at least for a tourist. But going through Chiapas, ripe with revolution and anti-American sentiment, put a damper on that. And it would probably be even more dangerous when I hit Venezuela...if they'd even let me in. So, I looked north.
There was always the wonderful thought of visiting old friends. And I hope to see many of them on this trip. I've become enchanted with the Vikings. Don't laugh. Little did I realize that there were a TON of Viking ruins along the coast of Labrador and Newfoundland in Canada. Whole colonies flourished for short periods after 1000. The Basque fishermen had a thriving cod industry going. There is even a legend that has the Knights Templar moving into the continent through the area. I started reading....and, wow, the fire was lit. Not only would I explore ancestors (my father's side is Scandanavian), I would also get to luxuriate in the kind of scenery, weather and land that I adore. Maine lobster was everywhere! I'd learn some French too.
Also, I've never had a chance to really explore all of the history in New England...nor have I seen the leaves change up there. Massachusetts is especially inviting. Old friends, the Guthrie Center and writers' homes draw me to it. And there is a figure skating training center in Simsbury that hosts many internationally known skaters.
So, this is the story of my trip. I hope you all enjoy it.
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