What an experience! I am so fortunate to have been able to do this trip. There are memories that will last forever. But here, I want to share some final observations.
Being in Newfoundland, is being in a different culture. Although everyone speaks English (or a form thereof), the culture has some different values. They take the environment REALLY seriously. It is thought of as a treasure to be preserved and everyone does their part. There is not a speck of trash on the roads, recycling everything is the norm, and wind power is well developed (20% of all power). Because electricity is so expensive, lots of wooded area has been deforested for fuel, though. There is not a zoo in Newfoundland. Moose are accomodated in backyards and driveways.
Secondly, the value placed on young people is extraordinary. Many end up leaving the province due to lack of jobs. Those remaining are nurtured by entire communities. Music is one example. Whereever I went there were teens peforming...and adults trying to teach them the "old time music." The cuisine in Newfoundland is pretty bland. Fish and berries are the two sources of good nutrition. In places, vegetables cannot be grown due to bog iron.
Most everything is expensive. Think about it. There are only about 4 months of productive time each year. The rest is spent snowed in. Taxes for the province and local government alone total about 15%. Fishing and logging are almost dead and there is little mining. Tourism is the up and coming money maker.
I read an editorial in the St. John's paper during the almost-shutdown of the U.S. government. They pointed out that, in most countries, affluent people are expected to pay more taxes to help others. They published a chart of national income tax rates (Denmark the highest) that put the U.S. in the bottom quarter!
In Newfoundland, the gap between rich and poor is nothing like the U.S. Yes, there are fewer people. But there is no conspicuous consumption...no extravagant displays of wealth...and few housing projects...none like we see in U.S. metros. I didn't see any suits, even in St. John's, tho I am sure they are there. To the untrained eye, class divisions are pretty minimal. The family home of the Irvings (of Irving gas throughout Canada and Maine) looks like something you might find in South Tampa. It's in Charlottetown, PEI.
The concern for preserving history is everywhere. Most all little towns have some sort of "historical site." This may be an outgrowth of the emphasis on tourism, but may also reflect the provincialism in Newfoundland thought. When NL became a part of Canada in 1949, the federal government decided not to spend a lot of money providing services to small fishing villages. A program of resettlement encouraged folks to move to larger cities. People my age are the main residents left in those little towns. They will probably be the last generation living there.
Some efforts are being made to preserve small town life, but the economy cannot sustain them for long. Retirement homes and vacation cottages are even clustering together. Well-known tourist destinations (ex. Green Gables, seaside communities, etc.) are nothing like Orlando. They are quiet, clean and not particularly busy by comparison. Life is lived at a peaceful pace.
It's a dying way of life up there. Sad, but so. Newfoundland is probably one of the last places of its kind in the world. The huge panoramas, the endless miles of timber, the clean and clear lakes.... There is an innocence about it all. It's like the small town life of my childhood. If you want to experience it, best to go now.
Thursday, September 22, 2011
Friday, September 2, 2011
Southbound, with obstacles
Going west from Maine was not a good choice. I stopped in Vermont.
Though it only seemed like a bad storm from the motel, you probably heard how bad it got there. All along the highway, repair crews were working. In Brattleboro, downtown flooded, a building collapsed and two of the three entrances to the highway were flooded. Cousin Jay was meeting with his Board, so it wasn't a good time to visit. I wasn't able to reach Kate and Bonnie--I assume that the electricity and phone went out, so I'm on a beeline to Florida.
So far, I've gotten lost in Wilmington and caught in Labor Day traffic leaving D.C. It's gonna be a while.
I've been thinking about this trip in its totality and am trying to write about impressions, lessons and loves. So much about NL brought back fond memories from childhood.
Though it only seemed like a bad storm from the motel, you probably heard how bad it got there. All along the highway, repair crews were working. In Brattleboro, downtown flooded, a building collapsed and two of the three entrances to the highway were flooded. Cousin Jay was meeting with his Board, so it wasn't a good time to visit. I wasn't able to reach Kate and Bonnie--I assume that the electricity and phone went out, so I'm on a beeline to Florida.
So far, I've gotten lost in Wilmington and caught in Labor Day traffic leaving D.C. It's gonna be a while.
I've been thinking about this trip in its totality and am trying to write about impressions, lessons and loves. So much about NL brought back fond memories from childhood.
Friday, August 26, 2011
Does this beat all?
A woman from Florida being stuck in a hurricane path....in Maine! I'm headed west for safety. More talk when it clears up...
Sunday, August 21, 2011
Coming south
August 21
From Brigus, I rambled on down to Argentia. That's where the eastern ferry leaves Newfoundland for Nova Scotia. It's an overnight trip and, since I didn't get a cabin, I was pretty groggy upon landing. However, clarity was enough to remember that I wanted to see Cape Breton.
So, two days were spent driving around the Cabot Trail. The northern part is really geared for vacationers. I saw my final moose grazing just off the highway. A crowd of tourists had stopped to take pictures. In hopes of seeing a whale, I took a boat excursion. We saw seals and had porpoises swim right next to the boat. It was really, really cool. No whales spotted though. I had visions of going back to St. Anthony to see them (and the Peterman ice island/giant iceberg which had arrived). The Celtic Music Heritage Centre stop yielded short lessons in fiddlin' and step dancing...which is definitely for those lighter of mass than I. All in all, Cape Breton is lovely like NS and worth spending more time on.
But I wanted to see Prince Edward Island. Little did I realize how small it is! In one day, I took the ferry over from Cape Breton, visited the Roma historical site (a 1700s French settlement), the Orwell Agriculture Living History farm and had a tour of Charlottetown. That left a second day for visiting the Confederation Building, Founders Hall and Beacon House.
There are only about 100,00 people in the province, 50% of whom live in Charlottetown. The island is mostly farmland. Potatoes are the big crop--just like Ireland. But it seemed like most people were speaking French!
Turns out that Acadian life is robust on PEI. On my way out, I took in the Acadian Museum. They have had a long and difficult history as a people here and in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. When the British and the French warred over the Maritimes, the French settlers/Acadians had to move elsewhere when the British were in governance. Only in the past century have they been incorporated into provincial life. French remains a language spoken by their many descendents.
I took a day to go to the north shore of the island and visit Cavendish. From all I had read, I was expecting something like Orlando. Much to my surprize, tho, it was much less commercialized. The area has capitalized on Anne of Green Gables, but it's done...well...tastefully. Besides visiting the house, I spent time at an attraction called Avonlea. It's a collection of buildings with different exhibits and a barn for performers. There was a fun 3 man group playing old time music and working the crowd into gales of laughter. There were step dancers, story tellers and some minidramas taken from the Anne stories. It was a fun and educational experience for folks of all ages. The twins would have loved it.
After I drove over the Confederation Bridge, I travelled along the eastern shore of New Brunswick...again, a place geared to vacationers...especially French speaking souls. J' no parle Francais is my standard conversation.
What else? I've been spending lots of time on the computer finding lyrics to the songs I want to remember. I'm making my way through Leon Uris' The Hope...which reminds me that there is virtually no Jewish life in the Maritimes. I found a havura (group) in St. John's NL and a closed up synagogue in St. John NB, but nothing else. However, Cohen's is a large chain of furniture stores around Newfoundland. I think in gave me an edge a couple of times. LOL.
The rig needs some repair work that I hope to put off until I get back to the States. Found out that Eckerd College will be offering the Oxford certification course that I need to teach English abroad, so I may come back earlier than expected...if they still have space for me. Still practicing the autoharp when it doesn't disturb other campers. At the campground I'm in tonight, there's a band playing tunes from the 50s and 60s. The sky is finally clear enough to see stars...but not the Northern Lights. It's too far south.
From Brigus, I rambled on down to Argentia. That's where the eastern ferry leaves Newfoundland for Nova Scotia. It's an overnight trip and, since I didn't get a cabin, I was pretty groggy upon landing. However, clarity was enough to remember that I wanted to see Cape Breton.
So, two days were spent driving around the Cabot Trail. The northern part is really geared for vacationers. I saw my final moose grazing just off the highway. A crowd of tourists had stopped to take pictures. In hopes of seeing a whale, I took a boat excursion. We saw seals and had porpoises swim right next to the boat. It was really, really cool. No whales spotted though. I had visions of going back to St. Anthony to see them (and the Peterman ice island/giant iceberg which had arrived). The Celtic Music Heritage Centre stop yielded short lessons in fiddlin' and step dancing...which is definitely for those lighter of mass than I. All in all, Cape Breton is lovely like NS and worth spending more time on.
But I wanted to see Prince Edward Island. Little did I realize how small it is! In one day, I took the ferry over from Cape Breton, visited the Roma historical site (a 1700s French settlement), the Orwell Agriculture Living History farm and had a tour of Charlottetown. That left a second day for visiting the Confederation Building, Founders Hall and Beacon House.
There are only about 100,00 people in the province, 50% of whom live in Charlottetown. The island is mostly farmland. Potatoes are the big crop--just like Ireland. But it seemed like most people were speaking French!
Turns out that Acadian life is robust on PEI. On my way out, I took in the Acadian Museum. They have had a long and difficult history as a people here and in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. When the British and the French warred over the Maritimes, the French settlers/Acadians had to move elsewhere when the British were in governance. Only in the past century have they been incorporated into provincial life. French remains a language spoken by their many descendents.
I took a day to go to the north shore of the island and visit Cavendish. From all I had read, I was expecting something like Orlando. Much to my surprize, tho, it was much less commercialized. The area has capitalized on Anne of Green Gables, but it's done...well...tastefully. Besides visiting the house, I spent time at an attraction called Avonlea. It's a collection of buildings with different exhibits and a barn for performers. There was a fun 3 man group playing old time music and working the crowd into gales of laughter. There were step dancers, story tellers and some minidramas taken from the Anne stories. It was a fun and educational experience for folks of all ages. The twins would have loved it.
After I drove over the Confederation Bridge, I travelled along the eastern shore of New Brunswick...again, a place geared to vacationers...especially French speaking souls. J' no parle Francais is my standard conversation.
What else? I've been spending lots of time on the computer finding lyrics to the songs I want to remember. I'm making my way through Leon Uris' The Hope...which reminds me that there is virtually no Jewish life in the Maritimes. I found a havura (group) in St. John's NL and a closed up synagogue in St. John NB, but nothing else. However, Cohen's is a large chain of furniture stores around Newfoundland. I think in gave me an edge a couple of times. LOL.
The rig needs some repair work that I hope to put off until I get back to the States. Found out that Eckerd College will be offering the Oxford certification course that I need to teach English abroad, so I may come back earlier than expected...if they still have space for me. Still practicing the autoharp when it doesn't disturb other campers. At the campground I'm in tonight, there's a band playing tunes from the 50s and 60s. The sky is finally clear enough to see stars...but not the Northern Lights. It's too far south.
Tuesday, August 9, 2011
Newfoundland/Labrador Folk Festival 2011
In spite of the cold and rain, several hundred brave souls sat in Bannerman Park last Friday night, listening to some great Canadian music. Rik Barron does songs for children and adults with that testosterone loaded huskiness of many Newfie men. A French speaking group from Quebec had everyone buzzed with high pitched, fast, klezmer-sounding songs.
Saturday afternoon was cancelled and I missed Saturday night's fun.
But Sunday was a day that will live in good memory forever. First, they moved everything into the local St, John's hockey rink/stadium. Secondly, the music went even further than Friday! To give you more of an idea about it I've collected some of my favorites on my YouTube channel, twinsbubbe2. Also there are several CDs enroute to Florida with more good stuff. If you can't get to my channel, search for No more Fish no Fishermen, Shelley Posen (Finer Kind), Sonnys Dream by Ron Hynes, Woman of Labrador and Ryan's Fancy. These are some of my top picks. Enjoy!
I'm hoping that the giant iceberg will be far south enough for me to see it this weekend. It's off of L'Anse aux Meadows today.
Although I'm beginning the trek home, still want to
a. see whales
b. see the Northern Lights
c. have a Jiggs Dinner
d. see one last moose
What could be better?!!!!!
Tonight is at Brigus, a sweet historic tourist town.
Saturday afternoon was cancelled and I missed Saturday night's fun.
But Sunday was a day that will live in good memory forever. First, they moved everything into the local St, John's hockey rink/stadium. Secondly, the music went even further than Friday! To give you more of an idea about it I've collected some of my favorites on my YouTube channel, twinsbubbe2. Also there are several CDs enroute to Florida with more good stuff. If you can't get to my channel, search for No more Fish no Fishermen, Shelley Posen (Finer Kind), Sonnys Dream by Ron Hynes, Woman of Labrador and Ryan's Fancy. These are some of my top picks. Enjoy!
I'm hoping that the giant iceberg will be far south enough for me to see it this weekend. It's off of L'Anse aux Meadows today.
Although I'm beginning the trek home, still want to
a. see whales
b. see the Northern Lights
c. have a Jiggs Dinner
d. see one last moose
What could be better?!!!!!
Tonight is at Brigus, a sweet historic tourist town.
Tuesday, August 2, 2011
St. Johns
August 2
Well, here I am in the Newfoundland capital city. About 100,000 folks live here. The downtown area is made up of restored buildings turned into restaurants and gift shops. It's on the waterfront, which is quite small. St. Johns is surrounded by mountains with old gunneries on the tops. There is only a narrow passage between the hills to get in to the harbor, so it precludes cruise ships and other humongous vessels. A small river runs through the city and, opposite the downtown area, is Pippy Park.
This has been designated one of the nation's best urban parks. It has a large campground (where I'm staying), a botanical garden, a pony farm with rides, mini-golf,lots of trails and the Fluvarium. With all this and seeing the various historic sites, there has been something new every day.
And guess who else was at the park. The Holiday Rambler folks! Good fun.
I had my autoharp tuned up at the famous O'Brien's Music Store. Between sights, it's been fun to play. I also purchased a kid's guitar to try to get back in to that. My new repetoire of songs lends itself to those instruments nicely. Tonight is a concert by Shanneyganock, a well known group that plays traditional music. Tomorrow is the annual (since 1818) Regatta on Quiddi Vidi Lake in downtown St. Johns. This coming weekend is the Newfoundland/Labrador Folk Festival---a nice way to end my stay.
Have been reading the Steig Larssen mysteries voraciously. They are hypnotizing. Also found a biography of Brasseur and Eisler, a wonderful pairs skating team from the 80s and 90s. Unfortunately, NL does not seem to have an arena to cultivate hockey teams or figure skaters. I'm getting tired of panfried cod and lobster season is over. The chowders continue to be delicious and I have yet to sample peas pudding.
All in all, this is a very relaxing time. But next week,the trip south begins. First thing on the agenda will be Prince Edward Island. I miss home and folks, but not all that heat. Hope to see the Northern Lights and stars before I go.
Well, here I am in the Newfoundland capital city. About 100,000 folks live here. The downtown area is made up of restored buildings turned into restaurants and gift shops. It's on the waterfront, which is quite small. St. Johns is surrounded by mountains with old gunneries on the tops. There is only a narrow passage between the hills to get in to the harbor, so it precludes cruise ships and other humongous vessels. A small river runs through the city and, opposite the downtown area, is Pippy Park.
This has been designated one of the nation's best urban parks. It has a large campground (where I'm staying), a botanical garden, a pony farm with rides, mini-golf,lots of trails and the Fluvarium. With all this and seeing the various historic sites, there has been something new every day.
And guess who else was at the park. The Holiday Rambler folks! Good fun.
I had my autoharp tuned up at the famous O'Brien's Music Store. Between sights, it's been fun to play. I also purchased a kid's guitar to try to get back in to that. My new repetoire of songs lends itself to those instruments nicely. Tonight is a concert by Shanneyganock, a well known group that plays traditional music. Tomorrow is the annual (since 1818) Regatta on Quiddi Vidi Lake in downtown St. Johns. This coming weekend is the Newfoundland/Labrador Folk Festival---a nice way to end my stay.
Have been reading the Steig Larssen mysteries voraciously. They are hypnotizing. Also found a biography of Brasseur and Eisler, a wonderful pairs skating team from the 80s and 90s. Unfortunately, NL does not seem to have an arena to cultivate hockey teams or figure skaters. I'm getting tired of panfried cod and lobster season is over. The chowders continue to be delicious and I have yet to sample peas pudding.
All in all, this is a very relaxing time. But next week,the trip south begins. First thing on the agenda will be Prince Edward Island. I miss home and folks, but not all that heat. Hope to see the Northern Lights and stars before I go.
Tuesday, July 19, 2011
Music, music, music
Twillingate is a must-do for any NL visitor. It has a colorful history and lovely ocean views, but mostly it is a music lovers paradise. First, there is a dinner theater troupe that does traditional music and humorous skits. It was made more enjoyable by the company of two couples from Ontario. We laughed the night away as locals played a mean accordian and made fun of daily life in the province. I was introduced to a unique Newfie instrument: the Ugly Stick. It is made with beer bottle caps and a mop. I'm bringing one back...it's just indescribable.
Twillingate also has a local musical theater company. They were performing The Wreck of the Schooner Begonia written by a local musician, E. Cameron Stockley. Her husband runs Iceberg Tours. It is based on a true story. A couple from the Holiday Rambler caravan (all of whom were in the campground with me) traded notes and shared a good time. Cameron wrote several really cute songs and the staging was creative.
The best thing by far, however, was a performance by The Split Peas. They are a wonderful group of seven women who started out in a community choir some 18 years ago. Propelled by Twillingate singer/songwriter, Ada Piercey-Jenkins, they harmonize in all sorts of musical styles: sha boom, sha boom to traditional English ballads to lyrical romances to Menopausal Blues. They are well known in the Maritime Provinces but don't travel like they used to....possibly because the youngest is 48! If you Google them you'll find a nice video done by the CBC in 2009. YouTube only has the music for Toutans and Tea (song).
Twillingate also features two museums of local history and at least two excellent restaurants. One served up a Jiggs dinner with pea pudding, which I missed for crab au gratin and blueberry crumble.
It was a terrific week, but I had to move on to Eastport. I was expecting an arts colony, but found only an Accordian Festival. My campground made up for everything though. On Saturday night, they had a Kitchen Party (we call them hootnannies or house parties). Six guitar players, one guy who played the concertina and harmonica and several aspiring singers laughed and played for hours. It was spontaneous and informal and we all sang along. If you wanted to play or sing, you just got on the list. And to top it off, the Holiday Rambler caravan arrived with my new friends.
The drive to St. John's included a visit to the Barbour Living Heritage museum in Newtown and a night at the municipal campground in Gambo. Now I'm just taking some downtime--especially since there is WiFi here--and will head to the Shamrock Festival on Thursday.
Read The Life of Pi and am listening to all the CDs of folks I've heard (especially The Split Peas). Crochet is at a standstill since it requires an accompanying tv.
I know how lucky I am to be able to experience all this. Hope to do it again, but with some company.
Twillingate also has a local musical theater company. They were performing The Wreck of the Schooner Begonia written by a local musician, E. Cameron Stockley. Her husband runs Iceberg Tours. It is based on a true story. A couple from the Holiday Rambler caravan (all of whom were in the campground with me) traded notes and shared a good time. Cameron wrote several really cute songs and the staging was creative.
The best thing by far, however, was a performance by The Split Peas. They are a wonderful group of seven women who started out in a community choir some 18 years ago. Propelled by Twillingate singer/songwriter, Ada Piercey-Jenkins, they harmonize in all sorts of musical styles: sha boom, sha boom to traditional English ballads to lyrical romances to Menopausal Blues. They are well known in the Maritime Provinces but don't travel like they used to....possibly because the youngest is 48! If you Google them you'll find a nice video done by the CBC in 2009. YouTube only has the music for Toutans and Tea (song).
Twillingate also features two museums of local history and at least two excellent restaurants. One served up a Jiggs dinner with pea pudding, which I missed for crab au gratin and blueberry crumble.
It was a terrific week, but I had to move on to Eastport. I was expecting an arts colony, but found only an Accordian Festival. My campground made up for everything though. On Saturday night, they had a Kitchen Party (we call them hootnannies or house parties). Six guitar players, one guy who played the concertina and harmonica and several aspiring singers laughed and played for hours. It was spontaneous and informal and we all sang along. If you wanted to play or sing, you just got on the list. And to top it off, the Holiday Rambler caravan arrived with my new friends.
The drive to St. John's included a visit to the Barbour Living Heritage museum in Newtown and a night at the municipal campground in Gambo. Now I'm just taking some downtime--especially since there is WiFi here--and will head to the Shamrock Festival on Thursday.
Read The Life of Pi and am listening to all the CDs of folks I've heard (especially The Split Peas). Crochet is at a standstill since it requires an accompanying tv.
I know how lucky I am to be able to experience all this. Hope to do it again, but with some company.
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