Someone stole my debit card number and used it to withdraw cash in New York. The past week has been one of abrupt departure, many tears, fast driving and general high drama. I'm in Calais Maine, finally getting this straightened out. Waiting for money and documents will give me some time to settle back down and rationally decide what's next. Thanks to Michelle D., brother Mike and Robin R. for helping to get this solved...
But the quick trip out of Newfoundland included some more great music. Wade Hillier (surprize), his daughters and a Newfie folkie named Daniel Payne provided the Saturday night Iceberg Festival entertainment. One of the daughters did a sweet rendition of "If I Die Young". Wade continued to dazzle with his songs and went into high gear when he and Daniel did some duets. Truly, truly wonderful stuff, great talent and much gusto.
As the drama was unfolding, I did get a chance to attend Neddy's Night at the Gros Morne Theater Festival. Several of the songs were old time things by NF writers. Interesting and authentic, but lacking the spirit, skill or passion of the previous event.
Finally, the ferry ride back to the mainland had Dave Pike and his partner Judy singing to the passengers. His background music was pre-recorded and reminiscent of the Sunday polka show on WMNF...oom pa pa, oom pa pa. And he did some Elvis songs. Well, even Newfie music can sound like lounge music...enough said.
So here I sit in the campground, biding time, cleaning out the camper, crocheting, reading and generally trying to relax and decide where to go next. Looks like there's something going on at the clubhouse tonight...
Monday, June 27, 2011
Saturday, June 18, 2011
At L'Anse aux Meadows
The UNESCO World Heritage site sits on a small knoll above the water. Moose roam freely and the wind blows relentlessly. From the Welcome building you can see rocky hills, small trees and the bay dotted with icebergs. The long wooden walkway down takes you around the unexcavated buildings: blacksmith shop, women's hall, houses, meeting house, etc. At the farthest end is a reproduced sod house with costumed interpreters, waiting by the fires. It is amazing how comfortable a sod covered building can be. Built in platform beds line the walls and are covered with various furs. Stored items are simply hung on the wall. People before us adapted readily to their environment to meet their needs. We should all do so well today...
The area of L'Anse yielded a number of surprizes. It is dotted with small towns (St. Anthony 3,000, St. Lunaire-Griquet 900, Raleigh about 90, et al) populated with families who have been here for generations. In that sense the atmosphere is very much like my father's hometown of Allegan, Michigan. Homes are small, everyone belongs to a church. women are adept at various crafts. Traditionally, it's a man's world. Everybody knows everybody, is probably related by marriage, and is trying to preserve a sense of community/family. There are few jobs here...fishing has died...and the young people are moving away. Those remaining are are gentle folk, greeting you with G'Day and calling you My Love. This cold land is warmed by the sweetness of its people.
Traditional Newfoundland music thrives here. There was a kitchen/house party as part of the local Iceberg Festival that featured a local family of singers, a young man playing ukelele and a professor of sociology on guitar, mandolin, stick (like a dulcimer) and harmonica. The music was mostly rolicking and followed by storytelling, a traditional art form up here.
At the Norse Restaurant, Wade Hillier played. His command of the guitar was mind-boggling. Riffs and trills were perfectly placed to heighten the spirit of each song. I think his fingers were going ten ways at once! And his robust enthusiasm for the music made for a perfect presentation. I am bringing back two CDs he made so I will always remember his sound. He is a talented jewel, waiting to be discovered. You can find him on YouTube.
Tonight--my last night in the area--I'm going to another Iceberg Festival concert in a parish hall. Local musicians will be performing. I'm looking forward to a savored memory there.
Other than that, visits were made to Norstead (a living history museum), Burnt Cape Ecological Preserve, many small town heritage centers and the tiny public libraries. I'm reading Sarah Paretsky's Blackmailed and listening to CDs of several Newfie musicians. This is a wonderful place. It will be tough to leave.
The area of L'Anse yielded a number of surprizes. It is dotted with small towns (St. Anthony 3,000, St. Lunaire-Griquet 900, Raleigh about 90, et al) populated with families who have been here for generations. In that sense the atmosphere is very much like my father's hometown of Allegan, Michigan. Homes are small, everyone belongs to a church. women are adept at various crafts. Traditionally, it's a man's world. Everybody knows everybody, is probably related by marriage, and is trying to preserve a sense of community/family. There are few jobs here...fishing has died...and the young people are moving away. Those remaining are are gentle folk, greeting you with G'Day and calling you My Love. This cold land is warmed by the sweetness of its people.
Traditional Newfoundland music thrives here. There was a kitchen/house party as part of the local Iceberg Festival that featured a local family of singers, a young man playing ukelele and a professor of sociology on guitar, mandolin, stick (like a dulcimer) and harmonica. The music was mostly rolicking and followed by storytelling, a traditional art form up here.
At the Norse Restaurant, Wade Hillier played. His command of the guitar was mind-boggling. Riffs and trills were perfectly placed to heighten the spirit of each song. I think his fingers were going ten ways at once! And his robust enthusiasm for the music made for a perfect presentation. I am bringing back two CDs he made so I will always remember his sound. He is a talented jewel, waiting to be discovered. You can find him on YouTube.
Tonight--my last night in the area--I'm going to another Iceberg Festival concert in a parish hall. Local musicians will be performing. I'm looking forward to a savored memory there.
Other than that, visits were made to Norstead (a living history museum), Burnt Cape Ecological Preserve, many small town heritage centers and the tiny public libraries. I'm reading Sarah Paretsky's Blackmailed and listening to CDs of several Newfie musicians. This is a wonderful place. It will be tough to leave.
Friday, June 10, 2011
Almost there :)
The ferry from Nova Scotia to Newfoundland was delayed for an hour due to bad weather. But when we drove off the boat five hours later, it was beautiful!
And for the whole next day, the sun shone. That was good because it was a long driving day with no places ready to be visited except the Corner Brook Insectarium...which the twins would have loved.
But today, I got up with the sun (easy to do when you're in the camper) and drove through Gros Morne Provincial Park very early. It was foggy and raining again, but a lovely drive. The foliage is not as willowy as NS: trees are shorter and scrubbier looking and the road along the ocean looks surrounded by bogs. It's like driving up to the top of a mountain and then into a steep valley.
But here's the best part. I'm driving slowly along, ogling the scenery, and a moose jumps out to cross the road. She settled herself on the pavement and slowly strutted into the underbrush, about 50 feet ahead of me. I went nuts! It happened so fast, I couldn't get a photo. So, I asked myself, how does a moose decide when to cross the road?" (I will research jokes of the same ilk) Trying to think like a moose, I noticed that there had been trees on both sides of the road and no ditches or rails. So slowly I drove along, furiously seeking other such places in hopes of another sighting. A big hare ran across the road, but no more moose/meese/mooses (?). Driving forlornly again on flat terrain, the car came around a curve and what did I see? Another moose! Grazing peacefully next to the road at the side of a large open field. Cars whizzed by. She just nodded to us and quietly returned to her feasting. So much for trying to figure out moose mentality. Maybe I've been alone too much.....
Anyway, I am camped in the fog, cold and rain about 50 feet from the ocean at Port du Choix (pronounced locally as "Por doo Shwaw"). Tomorrow I drive to St. Anthony, 176km away, and then visit L'Anse aux Meadows. Here are some links that may be interesting to you:
http://topdocumentaryfilms.com/matter-of-heart
http://www.viking-trail.com
http://www.nfb.ca/film/vinland_mystery
I'm debating going on to Laborador afterwards. But as thrilling and adventurous as this has been so far, I am missing friends, family, my dog Charlie and my sweet, sweet grandchildren. Sending many hugs and kisses to all. Thinking fondly of you...
And for the whole next day, the sun shone. That was good because it was a long driving day with no places ready to be visited except the Corner Brook Insectarium...which the twins would have loved.
But today, I got up with the sun (easy to do when you're in the camper) and drove through Gros Morne Provincial Park very early. It was foggy and raining again, but a lovely drive. The foliage is not as willowy as NS: trees are shorter and scrubbier looking and the road along the ocean looks surrounded by bogs. It's like driving up to the top of a mountain and then into a steep valley.
But here's the best part. I'm driving slowly along, ogling the scenery, and a moose jumps out to cross the road. She settled herself on the pavement and slowly strutted into the underbrush, about 50 feet ahead of me. I went nuts! It happened so fast, I couldn't get a photo. So, I asked myself, how does a moose decide when to cross the road?" (I will research jokes of the same ilk) Trying to think like a moose, I noticed that there had been trees on both sides of the road and no ditches or rails. So slowly I drove along, furiously seeking other such places in hopes of another sighting. A big hare ran across the road, but no more moose/meese/mooses (?). Driving forlornly again on flat terrain, the car came around a curve and what did I see? Another moose! Grazing peacefully next to the road at the side of a large open field. Cars whizzed by. She just nodded to us and quietly returned to her feasting. So much for trying to figure out moose mentality. Maybe I've been alone too much.....
Anyway, I am camped in the fog, cold and rain about 50 feet from the ocean at Port du Choix (pronounced locally as "Por doo Shwaw"). Tomorrow I drive to St. Anthony, 176km away, and then visit L'Anse aux Meadows. Here are some links that may be interesting to you:
http://topdocumentaryfilms.com/matter-of-heart
http://www.viking-trail.com
http://www.nfb.ca/film/vinland_mystery
I'm debating going on to Laborador afterwards. But as thrilling and adventurous as this has been so far, I am missing friends, family, my dog Charlie and my sweet, sweet grandchildren. Sending many hugs and kisses to all. Thinking fondly of you...
Sunday, June 5, 2011
Hello again!
It is STILL RAINING!! And it's in the 40s at night, 50s or 60s in the daytime. The locals tell me that this year is very unusual. Business folk are missing tourists. It's usually very busy by this time of year they say. I've stuck to indoor venues, but have several to see on the way back. Also missed Campbello and Grand Manon on the way up.
Mahone Bay is on the south coast of Nova Scotia. It is a very pretty tourist town. Had my first Canadian fish chowder at the Salt Spray Cafe. Found a very nice quilt shop, loaded with well-done local pieces.
Lunenburg, a UN World Heritage Site, was next. It's a quaint restored town, meant for tourists. Their Fishing Museum is very informative...especially about boat building. The city government even runs a campground down town! Then it was on to Halifax. Much time was spent just resting up. All the driving caught up with me.
In Halifax,the Nova Scotia Museum runs one of 47 sites: the Immigration Museum. This was fascinating. It's right on the pier where immigrants first landed. The exhibits stress the vital role of Aid Societies and other volunteers in helping folks get settled. Also visited the Dartmouth History Museum and the Black Cultural Center. Drove out to Peggy's Cove one afternoon and spent time with a local artist learning about growing up there.
But resting up, did lots of crocheting. Even made a doll with some clothes. One yarn shop had cotton yarn, just right for the task.
This past week has been a very slow drive along the southeastern coast. It is a lovely ride along the ocean, which was occasionally visible (lol). I was hoping to see whales, but none yet. The area clearly is not for tourists. Small fishing villages of ten to forty houses and a church dot the coastline. Once in a while you find a convenience store, but no gas pumps or motels. I found some great campsites right on the ocean though. Hung out with two couples from Ottawa who were waiting for a ferry with me. We visited the Goldboro Interpretive site and shared some tea. Also saw the Fisherman's Life museum.
Sturbrooke Village was just right. It is actually part of the existing town that has been blocked off and restored. It's another site of the Museum of Nova Scotia. Demonstrations of candlemaking, butter making, weaving, soapmaking, making hooked rugs, and other rugged life skills were good. It made me appreciate even more how talented women were then and how hard they worked. It is very much like Williamsburg, but not as big or commercialized. The homemade food at the restaurant is great---molasses cake, apple cake---yummmmm!
WiFi has not been available very much. I'm in Port Hawkesbury now, just over a bridge to Cape Breton. Because of the rain and cold, I'm going to hang out for a few days and see how the weather looks before taking the ferry to Newfoundland. And I read about record heat in the U.S. What is up?!!
No more books on CD available, so found some sale music items and have been listening to them: Janis Joplin, Leonard Cohen and Johnny Cash. Hope to find some good Celtic stuff and sea chanteys soon. Furiously reading travel brochures and a locally produced book on Peggy's Cove.
Mahone Bay is on the south coast of Nova Scotia. It is a very pretty tourist town. Had my first Canadian fish chowder at the Salt Spray Cafe. Found a very nice quilt shop, loaded with well-done local pieces.
Lunenburg, a UN World Heritage Site, was next. It's a quaint restored town, meant for tourists. Their Fishing Museum is very informative...especially about boat building. The city government even runs a campground down town! Then it was on to Halifax. Much time was spent just resting up. All the driving caught up with me.
In Halifax,the Nova Scotia Museum runs one of 47 sites: the Immigration Museum. This was fascinating. It's right on the pier where immigrants first landed. The exhibits stress the vital role of Aid Societies and other volunteers in helping folks get settled. Also visited the Dartmouth History Museum and the Black Cultural Center. Drove out to Peggy's Cove one afternoon and spent time with a local artist learning about growing up there.
But resting up, did lots of crocheting. Even made a doll with some clothes. One yarn shop had cotton yarn, just right for the task.
This past week has been a very slow drive along the southeastern coast. It is a lovely ride along the ocean, which was occasionally visible (lol). I was hoping to see whales, but none yet. The area clearly is not for tourists. Small fishing villages of ten to forty houses and a church dot the coastline. Once in a while you find a convenience store, but no gas pumps or motels. I found some great campsites right on the ocean though. Hung out with two couples from Ottawa who were waiting for a ferry with me. We visited the Goldboro Interpretive site and shared some tea. Also saw the Fisherman's Life museum.
Sturbrooke Village was just right. It is actually part of the existing town that has been blocked off and restored. It's another site of the Museum of Nova Scotia. Demonstrations of candlemaking, butter making, weaving, soapmaking, making hooked rugs, and other rugged life skills were good. It made me appreciate even more how talented women were then and how hard they worked. It is very much like Williamsburg, but not as big or commercialized. The homemade food at the restaurant is great---molasses cake, apple cake---yummmmm!
WiFi has not been available very much. I'm in Port Hawkesbury now, just over a bridge to Cape Breton. Because of the rain and cold, I'm going to hang out for a few days and see how the weather looks before taking the ferry to Newfoundland. And I read about record heat in the U.S. What is up?!!
No more books on CD available, so found some sale music items and have been listening to them: Janis Joplin, Leonard Cohen and Johnny Cash. Hope to find some good Celtic stuff and sea chanteys soon. Furiously reading travel brochures and a locally produced book on Peggy's Cove.
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