The UNESCO World Heritage site sits on a small knoll above the water. Moose roam freely and the wind blows relentlessly. From the Welcome building you can see rocky hills, small trees and the bay dotted with icebergs. The long wooden walkway down takes you around the unexcavated buildings: blacksmith shop, women's hall, houses, meeting house, etc. At the farthest end is a reproduced sod house with costumed interpreters, waiting by the fires. It is amazing how comfortable a sod covered building can be. Built in platform beds line the walls and are covered with various furs. Stored items are simply hung on the wall. People before us adapted readily to their environment to meet their needs. We should all do so well today...
The area of L'Anse yielded a number of surprizes. It is dotted with small towns (St. Anthony 3,000, St. Lunaire-Griquet 900, Raleigh about 90, et al) populated with families who have been here for generations. In that sense the atmosphere is very much like my father's hometown of Allegan, Michigan. Homes are small, everyone belongs to a church. women are adept at various crafts. Traditionally, it's a man's world. Everybody knows everybody, is probably related by marriage, and is trying to preserve a sense of community/family. There are few jobs here...fishing has died...and the young people are moving away. Those remaining are are gentle folk, greeting you with G'Day and calling you My Love. This cold land is warmed by the sweetness of its people.
Traditional Newfoundland music thrives here. There was a kitchen/house party as part of the local Iceberg Festival that featured a local family of singers, a young man playing ukelele and a professor of sociology on guitar, mandolin, stick (like a dulcimer) and harmonica. The music was mostly rolicking and followed by storytelling, a traditional art form up here.
At the Norse Restaurant, Wade Hillier played. His command of the guitar was mind-boggling. Riffs and trills were perfectly placed to heighten the spirit of each song. I think his fingers were going ten ways at once! And his robust enthusiasm for the music made for a perfect presentation. I am bringing back two CDs he made so I will always remember his sound. He is a talented jewel, waiting to be discovered. You can find him on YouTube.
Tonight--my last night in the area--I'm going to another Iceberg Festival concert in a parish hall. Local musicians will be performing. I'm looking forward to a savored memory there.
Other than that, visits were made to Norstead (a living history museum), Burnt Cape Ecological Preserve, many small town heritage centers and the tiny public libraries. I'm reading Sarah Paretsky's Blackmailed and listening to CDs of several Newfie musicians. This is a wonderful place. It will be tough to leave.
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