Twillingate is a must-do for any NL visitor. It has a colorful history and lovely ocean views, but mostly it is a music lovers paradise. First, there is a dinner theater troupe that does traditional music and humorous skits. It was made more enjoyable by the company of two couples from Ontario. We laughed the night away as locals played a mean accordian and made fun of daily life in the province. I was introduced to a unique Newfie instrument: the Ugly Stick. It is made with beer bottle caps and a mop. I'm bringing one back...it's just indescribable.
Twillingate also has a local musical theater company. They were performing The Wreck of the Schooner Begonia written by a local musician, E. Cameron Stockley. Her husband runs Iceberg Tours. It is based on a true story. A couple from the Holiday Rambler caravan (all of whom were in the campground with me) traded notes and shared a good time. Cameron wrote several really cute songs and the staging was creative.
The best thing by far, however, was a performance by The Split Peas. They are a wonderful group of seven women who started out in a community choir some 18 years ago. Propelled by Twillingate singer/songwriter, Ada Piercey-Jenkins, they harmonize in all sorts of musical styles: sha boom, sha boom to traditional English ballads to lyrical romances to Menopausal Blues. They are well known in the Maritime Provinces but don't travel like they used to....possibly because the youngest is 48! If you Google them you'll find a nice video done by the CBC in 2009. YouTube only has the music for Toutans and Tea (song).
Twillingate also features two museums of local history and at least two excellent restaurants. One served up a Jiggs dinner with pea pudding, which I missed for crab au gratin and blueberry crumble.
It was a terrific week, but I had to move on to Eastport. I was expecting an arts colony, but found only an Accordian Festival. My campground made up for everything though. On Saturday night, they had a Kitchen Party (we call them hootnannies or house parties). Six guitar players, one guy who played the concertina and harmonica and several aspiring singers laughed and played for hours. It was spontaneous and informal and we all sang along. If you wanted to play or sing, you just got on the list. And to top it off, the Holiday Rambler caravan arrived with my new friends.
The drive to St. John's included a visit to the Barbour Living Heritage museum in Newtown and a night at the municipal campground in Gambo. Now I'm just taking some downtime--especially since there is WiFi here--and will head to the Shamrock Festival on Thursday.
Read The Life of Pi and am listening to all the CDs of folks I've heard (especially The Split Peas). Crochet is at a standstill since it requires an accompanying tv.
I know how lucky I am to be able to experience all this. Hope to do it again, but with some company.
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